So why 2 solenoid's?

[Lip Ripper]

This 93 5.0 in the Falcon has a solenoid on the shock tower and one on the starter. Why? Wouldn't a relay suffice? It has pertronix ignition so I don't need the 12 volt boost when cranking.

[Comechero65]

If the starter is an original style then what is on the starter is not a solenoid but the magnet the shoves the bendix out to the flywheel. It activates by the motor windings.

Depends on how you have it wired and whether you are using a ballast requiring coil. And there is no boost, it's a cold weather starting feature developed by ford. It works in part with the ballast required coil.
Ron

[vicegrip]

Sometimes after market or even OEM starters will physically fit and work but have the solenoid. There would be a wire from the cable lug on the starter to the sol trigger term. if using the shock tower sol. You could remove that sol if you wanted but there would be a bunch of extra wiring to do.

[Rocket989]

The '93 (and up I think) Ford 5.0 gear-reduction "mini" starters do use a starter mount solenoid. They're wired with straight battery voltage off the always hot side of the fender mount solenoid. If you're doing ANY work close to the starter, disco the battery - ask me how I know!!

[Lip Ripper]

The battery cable is coming from the trunk so I will run it right to the starter. I will trigger the starter with a relay mounted under the dash inside. I will need to run a charge wire from the alt. to the bat. post on the starter (it goes to the fender mounted solenoid now). The aftermarket ignition already has a 12 volt key on source. It should really clean up the tower. This thing is perforated with holes in the engine compartment. Nothing the welder and a copper spoon won't fix.

And I think I will put a marine battery switch in the trunk.



Stacey

[Rocket989]

Sounds like a plan!! I'll do the trunk relo eventually...

[Comechero65]

Sounds like a precarious way to do it but it's your car. I would leave the solenoid where is and just run the heavy cable to it from the batt. Good luck.
Ron

[Rocket989]

Why is it precarious?? I'm far from an electrical whiz but I don't see anything hazardous in what Stacey is doing - seems like a solid plan. The PMGR starters require a hot 12V.

[Comechero65]

Why is it precarious?? I'm far from an electrical whiz but I don't see anything hazardous in what Stacey is doing - seems like a solid plan. The PMGR starters require a hot 12V.

Well maybe precarious is the wrong word, just more complex and maybe overbuilt.
I know what you are doung as i have a mini-starter in mine which is a geared starter. The batt needs to connect directly to the starter with only a seperate trigger wire connected to the other term on the starter. You have to add a second wire all the way to the starter if you move the solenoid to the trunk with the batt. In my way of thinking it's easier to leave the solenoid where it is and just run the single heavy cable from the hot side of the solenoid to the batt. One run and you have connect the normal heavy wire from the starter back up to the solenoid and then add the short trigger wire from there down to the starter.
If you ever had to jump start the solenoid as a test it's so much easier when the solenoid is right there where it always has been. Plus you don't have to add the relay under the dash as the solenoid just becomes a big oversized relay to trigger the starter. The solenoid will no longer carry any significant amount of current so should litteraly last forever. Much larger relay then but it's already there. simple.
Simple and the least amount of work the way I see it. But that's me. Only a suggestion. I do know a little about electrical, been in electronics all my life so try to do things that make sense and the most reliable in the long run. Just trying to help.
Ron

[Lip Ripper]

I've hand built 6 wiring harness's for different build's. It is old school for me. 6 feet less cable and one ugly appendage removed from the engine compartment is how I see it.

I'll try to find my original Falcon thread and give ya'll an update.

SW

[vicegrip]

The battery cable is coming from the trunk so I will run it right to the starter. I will trigger the starter with a relay mounted under the dash inside. I will need to run a charge wire from the alt. to the bat. post on the starter (it goes to the fender mounted solenoid now). The aftermarket ignition already has a 12 volt key on source. It should really clean up the tower. This thing is perforated with holes in the engine compartment. Nothing the welder and a copper spoon won't fix.

And I think I will put a marine battery switch in the trunk.



Stacey

This is a pretty good idea if your only intent is to clean up under hood but...now you will have a bunch more wires with the chance of them getting mixed up with hot headers,the cable,alt,main vehicle power,all on the starter lug, plus the trigger.I put a covered single post junction block down low towards the front and run the starter cable and trigger in a loom along the RH pan rail away from the headers. The alt and main power to the junction block and the trigger from a small block in the same location for easy access. Not quite as sanitary as your idea but you loose the extra solenoid. Plus,if you are running an elec fan or wp,you will have easy access to full amperage power. Just throwing this out there.

[Lip Ripper]

Great idea. I have a block.