roller 5.0 help
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roller 5.0 help
Hi guys. I’m going to need to lean on your vast knowledge. I picked up a roller 5.0 from a 1999 Explorer with gt40P heads that I am going to eventually shove into my 63 Comet. I think I have a plan for the build of the motor and I am probably going to switch it to a carb since I didn’t get any of the efi parts. The main thing I am confused with are the peripherals. I THINK I will need a front sump oil pan and tube/pump, a new water pump and timing cover with a dipstick access, distributer, headers, manual fuel pump, and v-belt pulleys. Obviously, I will need a new intake and carb. So, will earlier model parts fit the roller motor? Like, can I get a timing cover and water pump from like an early 60’s falcon or mustang? Also, will a manual fuel pump and distributor fit in this roller OK? I also hear about steel gear vs brass gear distributors. Which one will I need (I’m planning on using tfs1 cam with new springs)? I guess if anyone has the lowdown on easy fit headers, or know if this motor has to have such a long oil filter housing, I’d appreciate that too.
I know that’s a lot of questions but I really appreciate the help!
I know that’s a lot of questions but I really appreciate the help!
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- Joe Travers
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Re: roller 5.0 help
Front sump oil pan, pickup tube, timing chain cover, water pump & fuel pump for 289. Install pipe plug into the hole in the block where dipstick was located. Mark 5.0L harmonic balancer for timing on driver side after finding true TDC for 289 pointer.
Joe
Joe
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Re: roller 5.0 help
I have done several explorer motor swaps. You'll need a balancer too, the explorer balancer has an exciter ring and attached serpentine pulley. Make sure its an 50oz. balancer. Most foxbody 302 balancers are a good choice. The explorer valve springs are weak, you will have bad valve float above 4500 rpm. I always used FRPP M-6513-A50 springs, but I think they recently stopped making them. Steel distributor gear is the one I have been using with no issues. Headers are tough for Gt40p heads, the spark plugs exit in a manner that they fit most headers. There used to be special headers for the GT40p heads but those seem to be disappearing.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
Larry
Larry
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Re: roller 5.0 help
Are you going to run an automatic or manual? Either way you'll need an 50oz flexplate/flywheel.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
Larry
Larry
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Re: roller 5.0 help
Are you going to run an automatic or manual? Either way you'll need an 50oz flexplate/flywheel.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
Larry
Larry
- Joe Travers
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Re: roller 5.0 help
Ditch the oil filter extension housing in lieu of standard block fitting.
IDK if anyone has ever sold a set of 'easy fit' headers for the early Comet chassis. Talked to a couple of racers when I was looking for a pair for my Cyclone. They both had custom sets on their cars. I have Hooker Super Comps on my '63 but they were dimpled to clear steering shaft.
Joe
IDK if anyone has ever sold a set of 'easy fit' headers for the early Comet chassis. Talked to a couple of racers when I was looking for a pair for my Cyclone. They both had custom sets on their cars. I have Hooker Super Comps on my '63 but they were dimpled to clear steering shaft.
Joe
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Re: roller 5.0 help
The issue is with the gt40p head the spark plugs go straight out of the head instead of being slanted. Makes header and shock tower clearance an issue. That is why I now only use 96-97 explorer motors. They have regular gt40 heads, like what was used on 93-95 Mustang Cobras and early lightning trucks.Joe Travers wrote: ↑Tue May 10, 2022 9:17 pmIDK if anyone has ever sold a set of 'easy fit' headers for the early Comet chassis. Talked to a couple of racers when I was looking for a pair for my Cyclone. They both had custom sets on their cars. I have Hooker Super Comps on my '63 but they were dimpled to clear steering shaft.
Joe
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
Larry
Larry
- Joe Travers
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Re: roller 5.0 help
Ya, familiar w/ GT40P problem, was only addressing chassis clearance. For what it's worth, header fitment on angle-plug AFR head isn't 'easy fit' as well. Went through four different plug wire sets to find boots to clear the Hookers. Moroso 8mm 135 boots only ones that haven't burned up. Problem is clearance on #3 & #7 boot.Boss/Cyclone wrote: ↑Tue May 10, 2022 9:49 pmThe issue is with the gt40p head the spark plugs go straight out of the head instead of being slanted. Makes header and shock tower clearance an issue. That is why I now only use 96-97 explorer motors. They have regular gt40 heads, like what was used on 93-95 Mustang Cobras and early lightning trucks.
Joe
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Re: roller 5.0 help
Thanks for all the great info. Now I can start acquiring some of the parts. I knew that the gt40P heads might give me a little trouble but I figured I would give them a chance since they were easily available. I originally planned a T5 conversion but am having problems finding one, especially one reasonably priced. I definitely would prefer some kind of overdrive so I can run taller gears. It will strictly be a street car. I'd entertain an automatic but I have heard that an AOD wont fit in the tunnel very well. I haven't done too much research on an AOD swap yet.
- Joe Travers
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Re: roller 5.0 help
Six-bolt swap is tight in the '63 @ the firewall and tunnel.
Take your time and mock everything up, especially linkages & headers.
Nothing fits perfectly. Have to tweek as you go.
Joe
Take your time and mock everything up, especially linkages & headers.
Nothing fits perfectly. Have to tweek as you go.
Joe
- Boss/Cyclone
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Re: roller 5.0 help
If you are going to use the z bar for your manual set up you will need to address the pivot point on the block. No spot on the newer engines, I used the mustang steve cable clutch setup like fox body mustangs use. My dad used the factory z bar with a pivot adapter from scott drake, which only works correctly with factory bell housing not with a blow proof bell housing.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz7a531lm
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz7a531lm
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
Larry
Larry
Re: roller 5.0 help
I don't know of any headers that will work with the GT40P heads in a Comet/Falcon. I tried with a couple prior to landing the Edelbrock heads. These SAY they do, but no personal experience. I would give 'em a call:
https://www.sandersonheaders.com/sander ... r-set.html
I do have a pair of Hedman shortie's I started to cut and weld-up before getting PO'd and ordering a set of Doug's. I think my brother has one pair of the "P" heads left; I'll check and see how much work would be needed to get 'em to fit those heads.
I've been wanting to dig 'em out to finish anyway. Really, if they just angled the collector portion down a decent amount on the driver side & a bit on the passenger side they'd fit our cars (sadly, still non-P heads) just fine & I can't see how it'd change the 'Stang fit much...
https://www.sandersonheaders.com/sander ... r-set.html
I do have a pair of Hedman shortie's I started to cut and weld-up before getting PO'd and ordering a set of Doug's. I think my brother has one pair of the "P" heads left; I'll check and see how much work would be needed to get 'em to fit those heads.
I've been wanting to dig 'em out to finish anyway. Really, if they just angled the collector portion down a decent amount on the driver side & a bit on the passenger side they'd fit our cars (sadly, still non-P heads) just fine & I can't see how it'd change the 'Stang fit much...
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Re: roller 5.0 help
Thanks again guys. I have heard of the Sanderson's but hadn't actually seen them. They are kind of expensive but if they fit without modification, it would be well worth it. There are a ton of ebay headers that say they fit gt40p heads but they probably wouldn't fit in the car.
I'm still hoping to find a T5 but haven't had much luck around here. I would either look at the cable clutch or hydraulic to help with the clearances. It looks like with headers, clutch, brakes, and steering, a ton of stuff has to go on the drivers side and there's barely any room.
Regarding the harmonic balancer, would it be better to stick with the serpentine one that is already on there or would that not work? It would look off with that ring gear thing on it.
Also, I just found out that I will need a fuel pump eccentric too. I guess I'll add that to the list too, haha.
I'm still hoping to find a T5 but haven't had much luck around here. I would either look at the cable clutch or hydraulic to help with the clearances. It looks like with headers, clutch, brakes, and steering, a ton of stuff has to go on the drivers side and there's barely any room.
Regarding the harmonic balancer, would it be better to stick with the serpentine one that is already on there or would that not work? It would look off with that ring gear thing on it.
Also, I just found out that I will need a fuel pump eccentric too. I guess I'll add that to the list too, haha.
- Joe Travers
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Re: roller 5.0 help
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Re: roller 5.0 help
You can use the explorer serpentine belt accessories but it does get tricky if you delete any accessories. Belt routing becomes an issue. Everything has to turn the way it's designed to. The water pump is usually reverse rotation. Easy way to tell: smooth pullies are reverse, grooved are normal rotatio. You need to make sure the belt has adequate wrap on each pulley or it may slip. You'll also the correct length belt and some way to provide proper belt tension. But it's do-able, just takes some planning.
1964 Caliente hardtop, 302/T5/8.8"