COMET CENTRAL

Hello All, After a long search for the proper engine color, I settled on Duplicolor's Daytona Yellow. It may not be a 100% match to the Ditzler color, but it seems to be the closest that is easily available. So I stripped my valve cover and air cleaner, applied Rustoleum primer, and then the Daytona yellow. It seems to look close to the few pics of original engines I've seen.(yes, these had been previously painted, but I wasn't satisfied) In the other pic below, I've got my 200 moved into my garage, and partly disassembled. That's my long-term project, as the 144 is running fine.

It's good to see some ole 6 popper's kept alive.

Lip Ripper wrote:It's good to see some ole 6 popper's kept alive.

OL POP will 2nd that,,I sure like a 6cyl ford,my favorite is the 240 cu in...good luck,..pop

When others get excited about a BB V8, I am excited about the small six, just funny that way

See Ya,
Mike

Hello All, Well, I've assembled my Christmas presents (see pic), and I've now got my 200 block up on the stand (not pictured yet). I'm still trying to decide how much to do with the "new" motor. After inspection, the bottom end looks good, tight, and clean. The cylinders are generally smooth, except for a very small ridge at the tops where the rings have done some wearing. My option #1 is to do a valve job, replace the timing chain/gears (which seems a bit loose), and clean and reassemble everything with new gaskets. The engine was running in a 65 Mustang when it was pulled, but I have no other info on it. Option #2 is that I have found a local reputable rebuilder that will do the whole long block for $1125. Option 3 is for me to do everything except the boring/honing myself, which I'm not sure I want to tackle.

I don't know about spending that much for a stock rebuild but that might be the going price, I have seen rebuilt 200s on eBay for around $500-$600 even including shipping.

I guess it would depend on what you are comfortable doing, if you can afford to have it done then go for it, if you want to learn more and have the equipment then do some yourself, or just replace the parts that you indicated and run it, I am sure it will be an improvement over the 144 even not rebuilt.

On the other hand, if down the line you need to rebuild it and it is in the car, you will be down while the engine is pulled. When I was in high school I "freshened" my 170 in my Comet and never took it out of the car, I replaced all the crank and rod bearings, honed the cylinders, replaced the rings, and I was in VoTech taking auto mechanics so I took my head too school and gave it a valve job. lasted me a long time, in fact it was fine when I total rebuild 10 years or so later, may have smoked a little I really can't remember

Probably not much help too you.

See Ya,
Mike

No, I appreciate the input. My first feeling is to 'freshen' it with the valve job, timing chain, and cleanup/gaskets. It would be a bit of a gamble on rings and bearings, but it would be a lot cheaper, and hey--I've got my own hoist and stand, so I can yank it again if I need to. It's not my daily driver, so no issue there. (Of course, my perfectionist side says get it all done right the first time!). I Had a 200 back in high school in a 66 Mustang with about a zillion miles on it, and a valve job is all it needed to run well and stop using oil. The top ends are more of an issue than the bottom, I think.

That ring wear ,,,If you can hang a fingernail on it, that's pretty bad.
I think I would want to get a quote for the machining/block prep/cam bearing install plus the engine parts kit . basically everything but the assembly. It's not really that hard to build a short block ,especially with a motor stand ,but if it isn't too much money let them do it. If you can save a bunch it will be very rewarding to build it & crank & drive it.

Here's the block up on the stand. Pic of bottom end coming next.

MY past dealings with a high mileage short block,when a fresh rebuilt head and valve job is installed on it,it won't be long with everyday useage,the rings give up and it starts puffin oil smoke and starts useing oil,the fresh valve job will knock the rings out......jmo.,so I'd rebuild the entire engine .......ONE TIME !! and install and drive it...if it took extra time for the money and time or what ever to come to the front,then so be it ! you'll be ahead in the long run....but that's JMO.......good luck....POP

It may just be the light but that cam lobe that is pointing at the motor mount on the right looks rounded off.

I agree with Pop.

The cam actually looks ok, but you all are probably right about the rebuild. My worst nightmare would be to put it all together, then get blow-by, or a leak out of the rear seal! As serendipity would have it, I just received a check from my mortgage company yesterday because I've overpaid the escrow all year...$1700! I think it's a sign! That's enough to rebuild the motor and still have some food money for my family...oh what am I talking about!, a rebuild and a front suspension!!! What I would like to do this summer is take the car up to Oklahoma and drive old Route 66 in it!
But here's a serious question--If I get a rebuild, this 200 has hydraulic lifters AND adjustable rockers. I'll need some advise on how to get that initial adjustment--do you collapse the lifters first, or do they need to be pumped up with oil, etc....