Will this dual MC kit work on my 64?

[luc3ch]

I am keeping my drums all around for now. Found this kit from CJ Pony Parts. I am thinking it will be a plug-n-play bolt in.

Any idea if this is 100% compatible? The CJ tech helper could not guarantee I was 100% compatible.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/dual-bowl-ma ... 66/p/DBC1/

[SASSY]

I doubt you will find "plug and play" for a 64 Comet
That is for a Mustang and their engine compartment dimensions are different so the lines wouldn't be a "bolt in".
The master cylinder is a bolt in though the it's just a matter of modifying and/or changing a line or 2.
If it's not something you can or want to do, it wouldn't be hard to find a shop or person to do it.
fred

[luc3ch]

Got my dual MC all hooked up. I reused the junction block from the old single pot MC.
I was able to reuse the brake light switch by using a female NPT coupler between the switch and the block.

I bled the system twice including master cylinder bleed. Pedal still goes to floor and builds pressure after a couple of pumps.

I have some leaking at the junction block. Can't tell if it's the switch, the coupler, or on of the lines. It doesn't spurt fluid. More like just a thin film.

[poboyjo65]

You'll have to get all the leaks fixed before it will bleed proper & get all the air out.

[poboyjo65]

They make a little copper washer that is flare shaped. cone shaped. Ron ,comechero has a link to them. I've seen them on amazon too.

[luc3ch]

Just read up on another forum. If I take apart the leaking fitting, make sure it is clean and true, and tighten it up right I will probably get the leak out.

Guess I'll try again tomorrow.

[comethead]

I find with new brake lines and components that sometimes you need to tighten them beyond what your comfortable with. I've had many a leak free brake fitting in that uncomfortable torque zone

Joe

[bmmaurer]

Should have used this, You would have had dual MC and power booster. And it does fit in the spot, tight, but fits.

Comet Bruce

[bmmaurer]

Here's the install...

[Comechero65]

Got my dual MC all hooked up. I reused the junction block from the old single pot MC.
I was able to reuse the brake light switch by using a female NPT coupler between the switch and the block.

I bled the system twice including master cylinder bleed. Pedal still goes to floor and builds pressure after a couple of pumps.

I have some leaking at the junction block. Can't tell if it's the switch, the coupler, or on of the lines. It doesn't spurt fluid. More like just a thin film.

If you have leaks you can't get stopped you can use these copper cone washers which work very well to seal a leak. Cheap enough. Read about them here:
http://www.tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 5&start=75

Royal Brass, a shop in San Jose who deals mainly in hydraulic stuff and ac hoses. #408-297-6642.
Their part number 2GF-3 for 3/16" brake line. $.72 each. They have other sizes.
No way to order online so you have to call them and order. They will ship to you.

You have to get rid of all the air before the brakes will pump up properly. Takes a lot of pumping but you can do it. Been there, I can recommend a good kit to make bleeding air easier and a one man job.

Use of the dual mc from CJP should work just fine as long as you use your push rod not the one that comes with the mc.

If you want to add the booster, the one posted from ABSPowerbrake fits and works just fine, that's what I installed on mine. By the way it says 8" but it is actually a 6" which means a manual clautch can be retained because of the small booster size. You would however need to switch to a power mc as the input plunger is a different length to fit the booster. You may have some interference with the shock tower braces which may need some notching. Switch to an export brace and clearance is so much better with easier access to the engine as a benefit.

You do not have to order the booster with the mc even though they will try to tell you so. Just order the booster by itself and get any mc of your choice from anywhere you like.

I used a dual mc from an 83 Bronco II which works very well. 15/16" bore. It's all aluminum so also looks nice.

Ron

[luc3ch]

That booster set up looks great.

I plan to upgrade to discs one day and will do a more complete update of the hydraulics and booster then.

For now MC kit is enough. Thanks for all the excellent advice guys.

[luc3ch]

My brakes are working great now. Nice and solid.

Problem is after removing and resealing the hydraulic switch ( that's where the leak was) now the brake lights don't work.

When I short the wires together, the lights work. So it's the switch.

How sure can I be buying the 65 and later mechanical switch, that it's a quick add on? I know I will have to jump the harness, that's no problem.

I want to know that a replacement 65&up pedal mount switch will just bolt on.

Help! Thanks

[poboyjo65]

An easier way would be to get a mechanical switch & install it where the rubber bumper stop is for your pedal. You can get the switch at autozone pretty cheap.

[poboyjo65]

here is a switch;
http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and- ... ckfit=true
take out the bumper from the pedal & put the switch in it's place , might need some washers.

[luc3ch]

You beat me to the answer I was looking for.

So that switch must be a "normally open" when the pedal is resting against it as a stop. Then it closes the circuit when you hit the pedal and the button extends.

Right?

( Is it a generic part? Because the Ford mechanical switch look pretty obvious. The only thing is it looks like they mount on a longer pedal stud.
I could just get a new $10 hydraulic switch. But I don't want to get air in my system after I just finally got it bled.but my switch is at the very top of the whole circuit so it shouldn't leak out or draw air if im quick about it.)