66 Comet..Modifying shock tower for header clearance?

[ironrod1966]

I have installed gt40p heads on my 302 and as most already know there are issues with headers and spark plug angle. I bought a set of headers from ford racing and though the passenger side fits great I have big issues with the drivers side. I don't have enough room against the shock tower. And until I get the header in far enough it looks like I might have clearance problems with the power steering box. I have not tried the fit of the stock explorer exhaust manifolds yet.
I am plenty skilled at cutting stuff out of the way, and I'm not completely unskilled, but after that I'm lost. I assume cutting the shock tower creates some stability issues but if there is a bolt on solution I can do that.
So I have a few questions I need advice on.
1) Does anyone have experience with this problem?
2) How much more HP over the stock manifolds will the headers get me?
3) If I can't clear the power steering box is it feasible to preposition it?
4) Could using a different motor mount be a solution? (taller or shorter mount)
5) Could a slight modification on different areas in question help solve it?
Additionally, a buddy cut and modified the previous headers just so I could access the problematic spark plugs. But even then I had to remove all the header bolts to move the header away from the head just to completely remove two of the plugs.
I'll post pictures today.

1966 Comet Capri
302
Mild cam
Weiland manifold
650 cfm Edlebrock performer
Stock C4 and rear end.

[SASSY]

I would mod those beautiful headers.
If that is beyond your capabilities find someone to help.
Dont think about moving the steering box, cutting the towers is simple stuff but those engine bays are a decent size for a small block.
Im not familiar with the heads but I put a 351c in a 64. Towers and header tubes were the only mods in the smaller E bay.
Fred

[ironrod1966]

No one in my area will weld stainless header tubes. But I think it's a moot point because the headers are built to allow access to the spark plugs. There may be a little room to modify, but I doubt it would give me the room I need.
I'm scrambling for ideas so I'm gonna toss out a few that seem pretty radical.
1) Can I use a taller or shorter motor mount?
2) Can the motor be mounted off center about an 1" or 2?
I know...probably crazy suggestions, but cutting the shock tower and figuring out where to strengthen it is not something that comes natural to me.

Wes

[lavron]

I am sure you have seen this site already, but you can check Crites and see what they are selling and see if any of it is applicable to your situation.

http://critesperformanceparts.com

See Ya,
Mike

[redhotcomet]

You might try Hedman 88400 shorties. They fit my 64 Comet pretty well and they're inexpensive, not sure about the fit 66 though. Or you could find some regular GT40 heads.

[SASSY]

Moving the motor is probably possible but that changes its relationship to the rearend which changes the angles of the driveshaft.
That could induce vibration into the driveline.
Maybe start by removing the motormounts support the engine with what ever and move it over to see if the header will fit.
You wont really know till ya try it.
Also ask some different people about welding stainless, I do that in my garage with the 1950 stick welder I have.
Fred

[Comechero65]

It's been said headers from Sanderson will fit the GT40P heads and fit in the comet/falcon body.

Sanderson FF3GTS Headers $525

Ron

[ironrod1966]

Thanks to all. I'll follow those suggestions.
And I'll post some pics. Keep forgetting!

Wes

[ironrod1966]

I'm trying to upload photos and it tells me that the files are too big. I resize them down to below 100 KB but they still won't be accepted. Now it says the board attachment quota has been read. What's going on does anybody know?

[Jims65cyclone]

You have to use a photo server, like Photobucket. Here are the instructions on how to do it.
http://www.cometcentral.com/forum/viewt ... f=1&t=2448
Jim

[ironrod1966]

Got it! Thanks.

Here is the fit problem.

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh6 ... 1qaauv.jpg

Of course the header flange has to go waaaay down there and I'm about 1-2 inches from fitting using a measuring tape. I have considered heating and bending the tower for fit.
And it occurred to me that if I install the headers first and then install the motor I may be able to get it in there without any modifications.

Wes

[lavron]

Wes (and anyone else wondering) on the photo bucket page when you are getting an image to post, click in the window that has "IMG" next to it (just a single left click) on mine it turns yellow and says "Copied...", then come back here and paste the link without any other tags (it supplies it's own) and it should appear on your post then.

I have put a red border around the one you want to select.



You will see just a long link on your posting but if you hit the preview button or submit you will see the picture embedded on the post. this is the same way you attach a picture to your signature as well, but please resize signature picts so they are not so large.

See Ya,
Mike

[ironrod1966]

Awesome thanks Mike!

Now I can resize my photos below 256 KB with my resize program, upload to photobucket and then link to them. Should I edit what I have done or just remember this for future posts?

Wes

[lavron]

Size is not so much a matter with Photobucket, I try to keep mine under a certain dimensional size like 8-15" wide depending on how tall they are, for your sig that is where they are nice if they are smaller because otherwise it takes a long time to scroll through posts, you can see what size most are on here and mine is even towards the top of what I like too see but I have been too lazy to change it.

See Ya,
Mike

[ironrod1966]

Well I got the header on! I removed the motor mount bolts and lifted the drivers side of the motor until I had the room to get the header on. I installed the gasket and barely tightened the front and rear bolts. Then I lowered the motor back onto the mounts and made sure the holes lined up and the headers are not taking any of the weight of the motor.

BUT (there is always a but!) I see a few issues.

The front tube rubs on a bolt on the shock tower. I can grind that down or maybe even reverse the nut to the inside.



The # 3 tube has 1/16" clearance against the steering box. It looks like I could grind away some of the steering box case.



The collector flange has about 1/8" clearance against the block.

(No photo)

The high pressure power steering hose is very close to the front tube. I think I can put a 90 degree elbow on the inlet to reroute the hose away from the tube.

(No photo)

These are the questions that immediately come to mind. But I'm sure there are other concerns that I haven't thought of yet!

1) How much clearance do I need between the tubes and any other part to prevent wearing a hole in the tube?
2) Will the steering box be damaged by the extreme heat coming off the header?
3) Can I grind away some, SOME of the steering box case?
4) If engine rock is a problem can I use a mounting system to hold the motor in place?

Any comments or suggestions will be welcomed!

Wes