'64 Hood Modification Question

Discussions about general body work and modifications
tomb22
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Joined: Thu Jan 28, 2016 8:11 pm

Re: '64 Hood Modification Question

Post by tomb22 »

Used the stuff to fill in the rain gutters above the windows after epoxy primer. Worked great.
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tomb's 65

Lou's Comet
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Location: Jeannette, Pa.

Re: '64 Hood Modification Question

Post by Lou's Comet »

Jims65cyclone wrote:Lou,
I'm trying to visualize your description of a body panel repair. Do you cut the patch 3/4" larger than the hole being repaired and overlap the patch over the original panel, then blend with filler after it dries? Or do you cut the patch to edge match the hole flush and use a back-up strip of metal behind the repair to splice the two pieces together? :?
Jim
Jim, the panel would actually be 1" wider and taller so you would have .5" extra on each side and on the top and bottom. So if hole is 4" X 5" the patch would be roughly 5" X 6". A .5" overlap around the whole perimeter of patch.

The reason I have .75" of clean metal around both edges is because the tape I use is .75" and with the bonding area wider than the overlap I know I am getting a complete bond.

Sorry if it was confusing.

I have vise grips that step the metal around the edge of the hole, so when you put the patch on it sits in the step and when done right is pretty much flush. After clamping or screwing together take a body filler spreader to smooth/ blend the adhesive that squeezes out on the seam.

After dried sand it smooth, epoxy prime, and then if there are low spots use filler.

When fitting the patch I will cut the patch panel big enough I know it will cover/overlap the repair area. Then lay the repair panel in place on the car and with a marker draw a line around the whole edge of the repair panel. Then remove the panel and lay 1/2" wide tape around the inside of my line I marked to cut .5" inside the marked outline to get the .5" edge/overlap around perimeter patch.

Next time I do a repair I can take some pictures and post if anyone is interested.

Lou

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poboyjo65
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Re: '64 Hood Modification Question

Post by poboyjo65 »

Yes we are interested! I always enjoy your how-to posts. here is some steppers like Lou mentioned;
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-panel-flanger.html

here is the kind I have with a hole puncher on the other side, you just spin the head around;
http://www.eastwood.com/flanger-and-hol ... -tool.html

There is a pneumatic version too, it was out of stock when I ordered so I got the manual one.
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Johno

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Jims65cyclone
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Re: '64 Hood Modification Question

Post by Jims65cyclone »

OK! :idea: The step tool explains everything. I was thinking if you simply overlaid the patch, there would be a ridge that would have to be blended with compound and would be very difficult to blend to the point of not being noticeable. If you made a flush patch, you couldn't use panel clamps like you would to weld in a patch, so you'd have to make a back-up strip to go on the inside of the panel and serve to splice the two panels together. The stepping tool solves both problems by creating a ledge for the repair panel to sit on that puts it flush with the original panel. I'm not a metal worker (obviously), so I wasn't aware of the stepping tool. Now that I understand it, it sounds like this method is a preferable way to make panel repairs since it doesn't require welding (I'm a novice :roll: ), and you can avoid future rust problems in enclosed areas. Win, win! :D
Jim
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poboyjo65
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Re: '64 Hood Modification Question

Post by poboyjo65 »

Jim I think the visegrip one makes a wider track ,because it has a deeper throat. the one I have only steps down about 7/16'' or so,maybe less . I use it on weld in patches too,if I cant get to the back side to treat for rust. use weld thru primer like Lou mentioned . I'll leave about a 1/8'' gap between the patch & the step up for like a ditch for the weld to go down in, then you can sand it flush. & if the patch is small & fits good I use the clecos . if they wont pull the panel down tight because of contours or something I use sheet metal screws. I cant remember if I copied this ditch method from Lou or if I just started doing on my own :? . but if you weld it solid around a patch it seems to warp less with the step down , kinda like a miniature angle iron helping to hold it flat. :) because usually if you cant get back behind it to treat it means you cant get a dolly back there to hammer & dolly it.

here are the clecos
http://www.eastwood.com/panel-holding-system.html
but of course you wouldn't want to use these with the panel adhesive.
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Johno

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