COMET CENTRAL

I like those Lou! if you find any more let us know!

thanks lou ,that a great fuse block,I like the spilt buss.I was hoping for a side entry relay block,with fuses ..a tough one but I will keep looking.

poboyjo65 wrote:I like those Lou! if you find any more let us know!

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=T ... e&_sacat=0


Pretty sure the ones my buddy gave me were the "Pro Ties"

Lou

Kingspeedy2 wrote:thanks lou ,that a great fuse block,I like the spilt buss.I was hoping for a side entry relay block,with fuses ..a tough one but I will keep looking.

I am coming to the conclusion to get wha.t I am looking for going to have to build it. Even if I found one with the enough fuses, split bus, and relays, prob have to modify it for the relays I want to run. Thinking of making a panel that holds two fuse blocks, some relays, and bus's for the power and ground.

Drew this up this evening, not to scale and just something to start thinking/planing with. has the power/feed and ground wires. But none of the individual wires from fuses.

t

Now got to see what size I can get it down to and if it will fit behind my dash or glovebox somewhere.

Lou

I put together a drawing of the major components of my wiring design. This is what I will probably do with these items.



I will make individual drawings of the 2 fuse panels and how they will tie into all the individual electrical items.

Looks good Tomb! where you mounting the headlight fuse/relay box? Eng compartment?

Since your not doing a bat cutoff switch would you benefit from running the alt wire to the batt wire lug on the starter instead of the terminal strip? Might be a cleaner install. Would be a shorter run, could go to 4ga and then up the starter to terminal strip wire to 2ga. This way you would have 2ga from batt to starter and Basiclly from batt to alt except for the short run from alt to starter.


Lou

A drawing of the direction I am heading with my wiring.



Not sure if I should put the big fuse before or after the battery cutoff switch?? Thinking it should be before cutoff switch.

Going back through this thread I noticed the link for (typical amperage draw table) I posted was wrong link. Here is correct link.

https://www.kayjayco.com/techPractical.htm

Lou

I found a great site https://www.waytekwire.com/products/ they seem to have all the electrical stuff in one spot.They have a great connector and terminal buyers guide on the home page with decent size pictures.They also have the side terminal little fuse power distribution box that I was looking for for $149 instead of $350.https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46055/E ... 0-0-ssVEC/

I'm going to mount the remote fuse box to the right of the radiator where the voltage regulator was and the terminal strip forward of the shock tower. Here is a fuse, relay box I bought on Amazon for $15.00. Holds 6 fuses and 6 relays. You can wire it any way you want. There is a removable bottom tray where I'm going to put a small buss bar to bring the feed in and then wire to each fuse.




My alternator is on the right side so there will be a very short wire from alternator to terminal strip and pretty short wires from terminal strip to both fuse boxes.
The starter wire will probably end up on the fire wall. I'm trying to keep all wires on the driver side fender.

How big a fuse are you thinking for your battery feed Lou?

Tom,Hows the quality on the $15 fuse block .
Very tempting ,does the lid fit ok.any chance of it being splash resistant?
Being on the wetcoast moisture is always a consideration

Kingspeedy2 wrote:Tom,Hows the quality on the $15 fuse block .
Very tempting ,does the lid fit ok.any chance of it being splash resistant?
Being on the wetcoast moisture is always a consideration

For $15 I thought I would get one to look at. It's not weatherproof but it is splash proof. Has a overlapping cover that fastens down good and a bottom that inserts into the middle. Haven't put any wires into the connectors that came with it to see if the connectors will hold in place real good.
Comes with special connectors. All the wires go into one end with a semi round hole that is pinched with the middle and bottom. It's set up to tie wrap the wires or bundle on the end also. The plastic box is very sturdy.

I'm going to try it. If the connectors are good and solid in it then I will use it.

My OE wiring is excellent. I will use all of it as it was designed. I'm going to add another circuit for electric fan, AC and fuel pump. I'm thinking about powering that circuit with a master cut off switch like on boats or race cars. 3 relays on one master switch.

I think I mentioned this before about the Painless kit for a 65 mustang; the column wiring was for a GM steering column. I guess they assumed people were using aftermarket columns.

Stacey

tomb22 wrote:I'm going to mount the remote fuse box to the right of the radiator where the voltage regulator was and the terminal strip forward of the shock tower. Here is a fuse, relay box I bought on Amazon for $15.00. Holds 6 fuses and 6 relays. You can wire it any way you want. There is a removable bottom tray where I'm going to put a small buss bar to bring the feed in and then wire to each fuse.

My alternator is on the right side so there will be a very short wire from alternator to terminal strip and pretty short wires from terminal strip to both fuse boxes.
The starter wire will probably end up on the fire wall. I'm trying to keep all wires on the driver side fender.

How big a fuse are you thinking for your battery feed Lou?

Good price on the box. Sounds like it will work well for ya. I was thinking the terminal strip was going to be in the back of car for some reason. Up front will as you say make for nice short wire runs.

Thinking 200A for the battery to starter and depending on what amp alt I use somewhere around 125A for the alt to batt. Then got to figure what size for the feed for the fuse/relay panel. Got to sit down and figure out what the total amperage draw will be for the panel.

Still looking at fuse blocks, thinking of the ones from Jegs with the mini fuses and LEDs. But who knows lol.

Some neat stuff out there. Ron Francis has one that is programmable and they will have a module for it next year to work it from your smart phone.

Still looking for simple tho.

Lou

Lip Ripper wrote:My OE wiring is excellent. I will use all of it as it was designed. I'm going to add another circuit for electric fan, AC and fuel pump. I'm thinking about powering that circuit with a master cut off switch like on boats or race cars. 3 relays on one master switch.

I think I mentioned this before about the Painless kit for a 65 mustang; the column wiring was for a GM steering column. I guess they assumed people were using aftermarket columns.

Stacey

You could put a larger master relay for that circuit, so it turned on and off with the ignition.

Bought a Ford retro kit from Ron Francis a year or so ago. It also can with the GM steering column connectors. But pretty sure it had the ones for Ford too. We put a Ididit tilt column in it and needed the gm connectors. But they gave you both styles.

Lou

another thing I have been thinking of with the wiring of my car are lights. Tail/rear TS/Brake lights and the front parking/TS. They are all 1157,

Been thinking of brighter bulbs, esp for brake lights. But figure why not all if I can find them.

The 1157 candlepower is 3/32 low /high

I was planing on using 2357 which has candlepower of 3/40 which is a 25% increase over the 1157 on high(brake and t/s filiment)

While looking for fuse box and wiring stuff I found these on the Ron Francis site.

https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=B%2D1077

Which has a candlepower of 14/50 which is over 50% increase on high compared to the 1157 and like over 400% ??? Increase on low. And also come in Amber for the front.

They all have the same base. Anyone tried either of these bulbs? Not looking for led and with the price of the tail light lens I don't want to chance halogens. But would like brighter brake lights esp if it is as easy as just putting in different bulbs.

Lou