RCMike wrote:I think I need to do subframe connectors though.. Just one more thing to deal with..lol
Mike
Hey Mike Im considering subframe connectors too.
I forgot where I read it (online somewhere), but some guy had a bare 67 Mustang shell and a bunch of sensors. He added and removed different body reinforcements and measured body twist and deflection.
His findings were that where the unibody flexes the most is at the engine box. So an export brace did the most to reinforce that area. If I recall correctly he reported that torque boxes, monte carlo bars and sub-frame connectors helped but the measurable change was minimal. Of course a roll cage helped too.
Ill try to find the article, it was interesting.
I can tell you from "seat of the pants" feeling that subframe connectors totally changed the ride and feel in my 66 Mustang. Turning corners and pulling into say a gas station at a rised angle the car feels much stiffer, more rigid. Jacking it up say on the front leaf spring mount on now lifts the whole side of the car instead on just one corner. I did install an export brace at the same time though.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
Boss/Cyclone wrote:I can tell you from "seat of the pants" feeling that subframe connectors totally changed the ride and feel in my 66 Mustang. Turning corners and pulling into say a gas station at a rised angle the car feels much stiffer, more rigid. Jacking it up say on the front leaf spring mount on now lifts the whole side of the car instead on just one corner. I did install an export brace at the same time though.
Thats what Ive heard on the connectors. Cant hurt.
Anyone know if the Crites connectors are OK? The price is right at $80.
Ill order them now so Ill have them when Im ready to install'em (next summer)
Boss/Cyclone wrote:I can tell you from "seat of the pants" feeling that subframe connectors totally changed the ride and feel in my 66 Mustang. Turning corners and pulling into say a gas station at a rised angle the car feels much stiffer, more rigid. Jacking it up say on the front leaf spring mount on now lifts the whole side of the car instead on just one corner. I did install an export brace at the same time though.
Thats what Ive heard on the connectors. Cant hurt.
Anyone know if the Crites connectors are OK? The price is right at $80.
Ill order them now so Ill have them when Im ready to install'em (next summer)
Joe
i think i'm going to make a template and cut the connectors from 2"x3"x.125" rectangular tubing to fit flush against the floors. also plan to tie in to the rockers with 2"x2" square tubing. it would be nice to have the front carpet half to lay down flat and not have connectors through the floors. an 8 point cage should keep everything in place from the firewall back and a front crossmember and monte carlo bar should help keep the front in good shape
And I was the only car turning onto the freeway onramp. So I decided to see how long it would spin the tires if I did not let off the gas... I only gave it about 2/3 throttle, I did not want to over rev it too bad..
200 yards or more later, as I was approaching the end of the onramp, and about 45-50 mph, I let off the gas, as I did not want to still be spinning the tires when I merged.. Too funny.. I love this car..
OK, stupid question time.. How would I go about figuring what flywheel I need for my motor?
It has a missing/chipped tooth, and so if the motor stops in the wrong spot is VERY hard to start.. I want to replace it so I can really drive this car again..
Driving Fred's car reminded me how nice a Comet can be..
Hey Mike the engine and trans have to be separated anyway so who ever does that will be able to get you a replacement with no problem Im sure.
I think you have a 302 with a C4 right? Should be an easy part to get.
Fred
I'd rather do it myself if it's done right or not,,,isn't that what hotrodding is all about
Yeah Fred. 302/C4. I think out of a 1971 Torino.. My friend Kevin is going to help me at his house.. I just need to figure out 50 or 28 and tooth count.. I know best practice would be to remove the flywheel and look. I just feel bad having my car sit in his house garage (his wife always makes jokes about one day getting to park in her garage) while we wait for parts..
I dont think they made 50 oz until 1980something. you could get under it & take the dust cover off & mark a tooth & count the teeth as someone turns the motor over by hand. I put a little dot on each tooth counted in case he turns too far & has to back up. easier with plugs out . I noticed groover marked a number every 10 - 20 teeth,good idea.