Root's 64 Cyclone Build

[Rootsy]

Got the little Windsor loaded on the dyno today and everything leak checked and initially adjusted. Was impressed - hit the button and she came right to life… testing begins 1000 hours tomorrow.

https://youtu.be/8Orm7xNH_og?si=KkNWxGdSs5tkb3u3

https://youtu.be/SQoYSGUixm8?si=cbFvuiA5zs93Vkua

[Rootsy]

Time to start building a 9” and looking for a Toploader… I wasn’t quite expecting this…





https://youtu.be/sGD2EP39lME?si=egn-qtDbN3HY8Ioj

https://youtu.be/yXSfoB0qUEs?si=XCI-vao0eoSln0fH

[poboyjo65]

That's impressive!

[Caveman49]

WOW! Yes, very impressive.

[SASSY]

FUN FUN FUN WITH THAT 331!!

[Lou's Comet]

I agree with all the above,,impressive, very impressive, fun, and will add just down right COOL !!

Looks like ya had a great day!

Lou

[Jims65cyclone]

FUN FUN FUN WITH THAT 331!!

Fits right in to a Beach Boys classic: "He'll have fun, fun, fun with his 331 all day!".

Jim

[Rootsy]

Can anyone tell me the pitfalls of using a 56 1/2” flange to flange 9” housing! In my mind I only see it affecting the rim offset. Am I missing anything else? I currently don’t have any rims so getting what I want I would think make this a non-issue

Can anyone confirm that the rim mounting surfaces (end of axles) is the same distance to housing flange for 8 and 9”?

[Lou's Comet]

Can anyone tell me the pitfalls of using a 56 1/2” flange to flange 9” housing! In my mind I only see it affecting the rim offset. Am I missing anything else? I currently don’t have any rims so getting what I want I would think make this a non-issue

Only possible pitfalls I can think of with 56 1/2" are the wheel offset as you said, and the spring perch mounts. Not sure what the factory distance is between the leaf spring center bolts. Is the housing straight or does it have tapered ends? Make sure there is room to put the spring perch mounts on and U bolts

Can anyone confirm that the rim mounting surfaces (end of axles) is the same distance to housing flange for 8 and 9”?

Not always.
The small bearing 9" has the same axle offset and the same bolt pattern on the axle flange for backing plate as the 8"
The big bearing old style 9" has smaller offset and different bolt pattern on flange for backing plate
The big bearing new style has same offset as 8", but different bolt pattern on flange for backing plate

But since yours has already been modified ( they never made an 56.1/2 wide 9") all bets are off. You will need to measure. Does the 56 1/2" housing come with axles? What type of housing ends does it have? What brakes do you plan on using

Here is link to some info on 9" rears, about halfway down the page they show you the different types of ends with measurements.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-tool ... ment/28853

Lou

[FuzzyDriver]

Did they give you an idea of how many HP will be available at the rear once your non-rear loads are taken into account? How many HP do you figure the rearend you have ready is good for?

Oh, BTW, I pulled my plugs yesterday and #3 wasn't firing (ceramic was shattered and fouled). No idea how that happened, PO put them in unknown time ago. Also found a small vacuum leak at the distributor, but don't know which made the most difference.

[Rootsy]

Well I am only running a water pump and alternator on the front so I say that kills 20 HP. No idea what I will lose using the Doug’s Tri-Y vs those dyno long tubes - maybe 15?

I have a T10 feeding into a driveshaft with 1310 u joints feeding an 8”… no real idea what driveline loss is. That T10 I hear is good for 350 - 375 ft-lb of torque? Not sure on the rearend.

That motor was making more like 515 corrected. ATM correction was done at 6.9% for all pulls (correction calculated at testing start for the day) and we checked the correction after the last pull and it was just shy of 9% so the actual correction would be 2% above what was calculated for corrected power.

[A/FX]

Can anyone tell me the pitfalls of using a 56 1/2” flange to flange 9” housing! In my mind I only see it affecting the rim offset. Am I missing anything else? I currently don’t have any rims so getting what I want I would think make this a non-issue

Can anyone confirm that the rim mounting surfaces (end of axles) is the same distance to housing flange for 8 and 9”?

Not sure if you still need the measurement but I just came across my spare ‘57-‘59 9” housing and it measures 52 7/8” flange to flange. I used one just like it under my Comet back in the ‘70’s, it bolted right in. To fit a wide tire I used negative offset Crager SS wheels, 15” x 7”.
Now I have a Winters housing that I built, it is 44 3/4” flange to flange, I am using 15” x 8” positive offset wheels with plenty of clearance.
Jim

[Joe Travers]

Know a guy w/ a few '57 9" diffs that fit. Lives in Indiana, IIRC. Bought one from him last summer.
I'll look for contact info, if you're interested.

Joe

[Rootsy]

Thanks Joe and everyone else. Not sure what I am going to do.

QP will build me a completely new rearend with disc brakes for under $3k.

I have a friend in the torque control industry who has a NIB Detroit Locker I can have which is attractive because we all want to pinch pennies and I am more than capable of doing the assembly myself.

So ultimately I think I will likely at a minimum buy everything new but the diff and assemble it myself. I also think I will take the opportunity to convert to rear disc brakes.

I would really like to sell my complete 8” but I am not willing part it out or lose $ on it. Think it will be a hard sell. I might stick it under the car for now so I can move on with this project.

Feel I need to find a close ratio toploader and have a driveshaft made with 1350 u joints too. That T10 will probably be another hard sell without literally giving it away.

[Joe Travers]

That T10 will probably be another hard sell without literally giving it away.

Recently started to find a few Falcon/ Comet T-10 tailhousings on Ebay.
Me thinks the Mustang guys are getting in on 'em (?)

Joe