Lavron's '64 Build Thread

[lavron]

The more I look at my sig picture, the more I like the TT2s so I think barring the deal of the century I will probably get those.

My list is growing shorter on stuff I need to get, I would like to get the wheels before I start working on the car because it would be easier placing the front & rear axles in the proper position and height. I still need to get my front crossmember and control arms, but that is the major stuff left.

My little recap on what I have ready; rear axle and triangulated 4-link, all the brake system (except new lines), T-5 transmission, all the air ride valves, fittings and lines, Tires, and the T-Bird front buckets.

I need to pick up a little steel to make floor patches and repair my torque boxes, and get the air bags, compressor and tank for the air ride.

You guys know I have been researching exhaust systems from the other thread, I have found this on Summit's site and was thinking about using it, it is stainless, I think 3' long and 2.5" pipe for $130, I would just need to find a double muffler (thinking about a straight through) with a similar spread to this pipe, which is either 1.5" or 2" between the pipes. (ignore it is for a 6.2L X-Brand car)



Rocket had linked some exhaust flanges from Summit and I could get one set in 2" and a second set 2.5" (both have 2.5" outlet/inlets) and mix them together too get myself up to 2.5" pipe from my 2" header pipe, I think just plain steel would be fine.



I would just weld the 2.5" Flex pipe to the 2.5" flange and then weld the flex pipe on the x-pipe and I could have the muffler welded on or just clamp it on, I might have to cut the bell off the X-Pipe on the muffler end.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

I was also going to ask about ceramic coating my header, has anyone done that, and do they prep it and everything? Do you wait until after you have run it or have it done while new? I guess lastly where did you send it or who does a good job?

See Ya,
Mike

[popscomet]

IT'S been many yrs ago,since I had my headers coated ,best I recall,I sent them to OKLOHOMA,don't recall who did it but they told me to make sure they fit 1st and make any adjustments ,then DO NOT START THE MOTOR WITH THEM INSTALLED,take them off and ship to them,but do not use them before they coat them....and I had some cast iron manifolds JET HOT COATED in TEXAS...POP

[lavron]

I thought it would be a good idea to weld the flange on before getting them coated, I guess the loose part of the flange wouldn't affect anything.

See Ya,
Mike

[Rocket989]

Sounds like a plan! I got a local deal on an older set of pretty clean, plated Doug Thorley tri-y's. No real way to get 'em coated so I'm gonna try several coats of grill paint (supposed to hold heat IN) baked w/ a heat gun! We'll see!!

[popscomet]

I thought it would be a good idea to weld the flange on before getting them coated, I guess the loose part of the flange wouldn't affect anything.

See Ya,
Mike

I WELDED MY CUT OUTS together 1st also,then I had them coated along with my headers,,MIKE,,I had all this done before coated headers was real popular,not many people had them around here,POP's old comet has been around and the way I did it for yrs......and I've never changed anything

[lavron]

I know I have not posted anything here for awhile, but not burned out or anything just still collecting and researching.

After the Comet Gathering I have been thinking again about getting the Comet drivable again and am concentrating now on getting my car to the point it matches my sig picture (well the current one as of 6/2017) That would be this one;



That means most things I need to do are suspension related and I have almost all the components for that and will concentrate on getting the few things left.

Major things left to get are (from high to low cost?);
Wheels
Air bags
Compressor
Air Tank
T-5 Adapter
Fuel Tank
Exhaust
Shocks

Probably a few things I missed but those are the major things.

I am going to refresh my 170 and leave it in there for now, like I said it does not have that many miles on the rebuild even though it happened over 10 years ago, I will need to replace some seals and rebuild the carbs and try to get the exhaust port divider in good (I need to experiment before I try on my new head anyway)

Structurally I am going to rebuild the torque boxes and patch the floor and trunk.

That is all off the top of my head for now

See Ya,
Mike

[Rocket989]

Git 'er dun! It'll be interesting to watch the bag stuff/ MII go in! I can't remember - so you found a T5 adapter plate to mate to the 170?

[comethead]

Cool to see this come together. If the finished product is like your sig pic- awesome!
I've been debating the header coatings. A friend just invested a whole lot of $$$ on a header coating on a big block brand-x. Rust is starting to come through in a few spots after only 500 miles

Maybe I'll get them in plain black and wrap them on the Falcon.

Joe

[lavron]

so you found a T5 adapter plate to mate to the 170?

I have the 3.3 top loader 3-speed on there right now and with the adapter the T-5 is supposed to go where the 3 speed is so hoping it will and later the adapter would fit the 200 bell. Really the question to be answered is how I got the 3.3 on there because everything I read it is not possible. Once I get the engine and transmission pulled I will check and find out what bell I have, I think I will get the adapter for the 200 bell T-5 Swap and hope it fits, I mean it has to physically be able to bolt on because it is all on there now and I have driven the car a lot with it there.

I have ordered my crossmember and have determined the way I am going to install the front bags so I will reveal that as it happens if it works for me. I ended up ordering the welder series crossmember basically just in parts because it would be too easy to order a complete, ready to go kit, again I will show and tell when I do it I think even as I am preceding I will end up with a sub $1000 M2 install by piecing it together (don't recommend doing it that way and may really regret it when I finally get to the installation) I will tally eventually all the parts I used.

See Ya,
Mike

[Rocket989]

For a Bird or Comet I'd probably go weld-in for an MII...but it ain't "easier"!!

Joe - I got a set of used nickel Doug Thorley headers local (& cheap). I pulled out a dent & welded the hole (had the brother drop silver solder around the tubes going into the collectors. Plan is to paint scuff 'em up & paint with Krylon BBQ & Stove paint (the best one IMO), then wrap with DEI stuff. The BBQ paint is supposed to keep heat in (lofty claim since its paint!!)...we'll see.

[comethead]

Thanks Rocket!
I'll keep an eye your for your header work. Might save me some headaches later.

The plain black Doug's headers are pretty cheap compared to the coated so I'll probably stay away from those.

Joe

[lavron]

I just got the instructions from rod plans.com on building and installing a MII crossmember from scratch, didn't really learn a lot I hadn't already gleaned from the inter webs but it has nice drawings and measurements and step by step instructions so I guess it was worth the $16 I paid for it, can't be too well informed when you never have done something before

I am not building from scratch anyway.

See Ya,
Mike

[ArkansasComet]

Looking forward to seeing your progress Mike!

[lavron]

Been knocking this around over on another post but thought it best to have here.

I am trying to figure out the best overall strategy on my drivetrain, right now my thoughts are that the 170 is just going to have to go out of the picture moving forward, I had talked about leaving it in until I get the 200 built but there is no way I am going to do the T-5 swap for the 170, I can't reuse the parts for the 200.

To explain, for any that missed it, I was considering going ahead with a 250, there are problems with that in that I can't get a rear sump oil pan so I will have to build one, and I need to find an affordable good engine, those two things aside it is most likely my best choice for reasons I will discuss later.

My alternate plan to use the 170 has proved to be a problem, #1 the T-5 Adapter is $190 and will not work on the 200 bell (9" clutch), I am not opposed to using the 8.5" clutch and flywheel on the 200 and I went out today and made sure the small bell would fit the 200 block, I can by just moving the two locator pins, which I did.



The Bell mounts like it belongs.



However there is an issue, 8.5" pressure plates are almost impossible to find and diaphragm ones are nonexistent, I can try to use a Mercedes 190D PP but they are not all that cheap. I am not saying I could not use my current PP but it is not a diaphragm and someday it will need replaced or most likely rebuilt (still a three finger). Seems like one thing works for me and another against me each way I step.

I probably need to let this lay for a while and not buy anything and just concentrate on the stuff I already know I have plans and stuff for, I just like to have everything worked out ahead.

Currently I will move forward with the plans to put the 200 in, the 9" stuff is available and the T-5 adapter is cheaper, but, if a good 250 fell in my lap (that would hurt) I would rather fight the oil pan issue (rear sump 200 oil pans are out there, of course they don't fit a 250) because clutch, bell housing, starter are all SBF stuff and I would have choice parts and could just use a T5 bell housing with no adapter and I am sure all that stuff would be cheaper overall and available in the future when needed instead of adapting parts.

Big thing is actually locating a 250, I can tear down the one in the JY, he said he did not care, and check it before buying, I have a sneaking suspicion the problem with that motor was ignition related because the distributor module is melted so it might be a good motor, I would consider the $150 not a bad price if I could do just a quick refresh on it and not total rebuild, but we know how that goes .

For anyone interested here is a picture of a couple of the bells I have, the top one is cast iron out of a Econoline with a 170 and 3.03 three speed, I think, The lower one is just the standard old non-synchro 3 speed, I think this is the original one out of my Comet.



I think I finally figured out how I got the 3.03 on the 170 without any adapter, I bought the van transmission and put the Maverick tailhousing and output shaft on it, the van transmission was drilled for either bell housing, the cast iron one or the aluminum car bell, the ears I see sticking out between the bell and transmission on my Comet are the transmission's wider mounting ears, just is anyone wanted to know that

See Ya,
Mike