Lavron's '64 Build Thread

[poboyjo65]

You're cruisin now! seems much better & easier than just weld it all in place. & going to be plenty stout.

that work bench looks like it's missing its top!

[popscomet]

that work bench looks like it's missing its top! [/quote]
your so damn PICKY !! he's out in the heat,,sweatin like a big dog and your concerned about a work bench...give us a break !!! …...pop

[poboyjo65]

Heck Pop he has to stack up his work like it is, with a top he'd have room to spread out & do some work! You know I gotta nitpick a little just to stay practiced up. besides I ran out of stuff to nitpick about his car so I had to scratch up something.

[lavron]

that work bench looks like it's missing its top!

They are saw horses and they have a top it is leaning over against the other wall, I was quitting for the day and this is their stored position

I actually was using the flat bed trailer as a work bench today (in the pictures with the rustic looking wood, that is my trailer) I had to go to town this morning and the satellite repair man showed up about the time I got home (I have had blinky internet lately) so I didn't get out there until around noon to 1pm the shade didn't last long, by 2 or so I was finished for the day, way too hot out and I would like to avoid heat stroke, but I got something done so I feel satisfied with that.

Thinking about the front end work I need to do after I am done(ish) with the rear stuff, how did you guys, who have removed it, cut out your export brace(?) did you lop it off or cut the spot welds? I need to get up there and start removing stuff at least a little at a time, I still haven't pulled the steering box and the horns off I haven't hit one month yet so I guess I am not doing too bad.

See Ya,
Mike

[poboyjo65]

I drilled out the spot welds,after I lopped the braces off. drilled all the way thru then when I welded a piece of angle under the lip I used those holes to plug weld the angle on. but I marked where the new holes for the bolt on export brace so I wasn't putting welds where I had to drill. best I remember I was lucky & the new holes didnt land on any of my plug welds. I think Joe put his angle brace on top of the lip & just left the old pieces of shock tower brace under the lip.

[lavron]

I think Joe put his angle brace on top of the lip & just left the old pieces of shock tower brace under the lip.

Thanks that may happen with mine

Got out today and got the upper parts made for the C-notches, I decided to make them more round so I bent them and ground the side plates to match, I still need to trim them for height. I also decided it was time to cut out the brace from trunk area, right or wrong I just cut the floor out too, Ford was tricky on the up and down part of the brace and spot welded it inside the frame before they installed floor but I got those cut and ground off the spot welds and the pieces of the bracket left on the frame so I could get my side plates up on there, here is the result.



You can see where I need to cut out the frame section for the C-notch. I screwed the plate on the frame again and started figuring out where my replacement brace would need to go.

The brace I have is a motor mount/belly bar for putting a SBF in an early 60's F100, I bought it when I was putting the police interceptor in my '62 and then I didn't use it and used frame mounts instead, I just kept it all these years and now I may as well use it on the Comet as a trunk brace replacement, I need to cut the motor mounts off of it still.

I turned my upper bag brackets right way up and sat them on there, I need to trim an inch or two off of the frame side of them to give more room for the upper bar mounts on the 4 link, the bars coming up from lower mounts are just something to mock up for shocks.



I think using the belly bar upside down across the rear I can have enough clearance for the exhaust pipes to go over the axle. My thoughts right now is to use a trailer fender cut in half a welded side by side as a hump over the pumpkin, I may still have to enlarge the driveshaft tunnel.

It certainly was a hot day today, must have been near 100, and between 10-1:30 or so the sun comes right down on me in the back of the car, I kinda wish the car was the other direction but at least when I do the front suspension I will be in the shade

See Ya,
Mike

[bigdan]

You're making headway now! It's looking good; I especially like the repurposing of the round bar and the future C- notch. You'll have a long day or two of welding ahead, but it'll be well worth it. Keep it up!

Dan

[tomb22]

Looking very good Mike. Keep the pictures coming.
Tom

[lavron]

It's looking good; I especially like the repurposing of the round bar

I am all about living green and recycling

You'll have a long day or two of welding ahead, but it'll be well worth it.

Or more Getting really close to tacking everything up and testing it so I can get on the front end, I really want this car back on it's own wheels as soon as possible.

Looking very good Mike. Keep the pictures coming.
Tom

I am hoping the pictures make sense it is a little hard to see what I am doing with all that stuff going on back there. And I hope it all works the way it should when I get done.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

Daily update, I got the upper bag mounts mostly trimmed, they will need a little final fitting but I took around an inch off the frame edge.



I went ahead and ran a screw through each brace base to hold them in place while I decide on what angle I am going to set the bar and then tack it, remove it and weld it solid before welding it to the side plates. Also tacked the upper bar axle mount tabs to the rear after rechecking all my angles again, it is really starting to get solid under there, I have been careful not to pull on the rear axle while crawling around under there, now I don't think you could move it (twist the pinion angle out) I need to go ahead and get the lower brackets tacked on and run the through it's full articulation and check for any (all) the issues that will pop up and see that nothing binds.



The first issue that I have seen so far is there is a clearance issue with the upper bracket/bar bolt and the lower airbag bracket, I will need to get a shorter bolt or cut off the one I have, I am also thinking about welding the nut too the bracket and using a lock washer under the bolt head.



Oh yeah it was hot again today but I got something done

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

The first issue that I have seen so far is there is a clearance issue with the upper bracket/bar bolt and the lower airbag bracket

I went out and looked at this again, I can remove another 1/2" from the upper bag brackets and scoot them out, it should still give the bag 1/2" clearance to the frame and will resolve the bolt issue

I will still shorten the bolts down just to be sure.

See Ya,
Mike

[bigdan]

You could always slip a spacer/ washers under the bolt head. I wouldn't tack a nut, though, cause it would be hell if it ever got cross threaded. Looking good as always -

Dan

[A/FX]

The bolt should have a shoulder at the shear point. Having threads in that area weaken the structural strength of the pivot.
Use a grade 5 at a minimum preferably a grade 8 and should be used with a nylock nut or a castle nut with a cotter pin.
I prefer fine thread on suspension fasteners.
Jim

[loman]

The bolt should have a shoulder at the shear point. Having threads in that area weaken the structural strength of the pivot.
Use a grade 5 at a minimum preferably a grade 8 and should be used with a nylock nut or a castle nut with a cotter pin.
I prefer fine thread on suspension fasteners.
Jim

Jim is right about the shoulder, shear points , and fine thread. That is how my cars 4 link is. Not to say it wouldn't be fine and work on a street car but I'd rather error on the side of caution.

[lavron]

I believe those are grade5 bolts (has 3 marks on head) they are what came with the 4 link kit, any I have replaced I used grade8.

Probably will get grade 8 bolts in the right length then after I get it all set-up, thanks for the advisement guys I appreciate it.

See Ya,
Mike