Hey folks,
There was an older post on the forum referring me to Hot Spark electronic ignition. Here is the site. http://www.hot-spark.com/1-3FOR6U1.htm Well, I have installed the kit, replaced the ignition coil with a 3.3 ohm primary resistance coil and even wired in a ballast resistor in series between the 12v igntion switch wire to the + side of the coil. I am getting absolutely nothing with a timing light from the center lead to the distributor. I am kind of at a loss. I have tested the module as the site says in troubleshooting: http://www.hot-spark.com/Troubleshooting.pdf and it tests out just fine. Has anyone else installed this thing? All I can think is the little pickup is faulty. It is magnetic and will stick to metal.
Thanks ahead of time. I have a 1964 Comet 202. Ford motorcraft distributor (C4DF-12127-4DD). The car is completely stock.
"Hot Spark" electronic ignition
Re: "Hot Spark" electronic ignition
The ignition wire already has a resistor wire inline (the partially pink one you can see behind the instrument panel). How many volts are you getting at the coil? Not familiar with the Hot Spark ignition. Does it run on full 12-volt or need to be stepped down??
'cause Johno says you gotta have a sig pic! 
Re: "Hot Spark" electronic ignition
When the resistor inline, I am getting about 9 volts.... Without, a good 12 volts. It calls for normal 12.5 or so input voltage. With engine rev'd up a bit with normal points, I generated about 14 volts so I figured I needed a ballast resistor as instructed. I purchased a Duralast® (Autozone) LU800 3.3 Ω primary resistance, 8.3K Ω secondary resistance (oil-filled) - (4- and 6-cyl) listed as compatible coil here: http://www.hot-spark.com/Coil.htm
I have tried this think with a direct 12 volt source from battery. I have gone back and tried my old coil temporarily. I have tried with or without ballast resistor in series with ignition wire. I have tested pickup to be fine according to troubleshooting off site. It is within spec. I'm about to give up. I appreciate the response.
Here are the instructions:
Test the charging system's maximum voltage: Check the voltage reading at the coil's + terminal, engine running. If
the voltage measures more than +14.0 volts, at any RPM level, you'll need to replace the voltage regulator, install a
coil with 3.0 Ohms or more internal primary resistance and/or install a 1.0 to 1.4 Ohm external ballast resistor between
the coil's + terminal and the HotSpark ignition's red wire.
Included: Packet of white thermal transfer paste. Clean distributor's breaker plate spotlessly clean. Apply a uniform
layer of the included packet of white thermal paste to bottom of ignition module to ensure better cooling of ignition
module.
Wiring Installation Basics:
1. Begin with a fully-charged battery. Turn on the ignition switch. With engine not running, using a voltmeter in the 20
Volt DC mode, check that the voltage, measured at the coil's + terminal, is around +12.5 volts, about the same as
battery voltage. The red voltmeter lead should touch the coil's + terminal while the black voltmeter lead is touching
engine ground. If voltage reading is too low or there’s no reading, the battery’s terminals or ground connection may be
corroded and need cleaning. Some vehicles have a resistor wire running from the ignition switch to the coil’s +
terminal. If this resistor wire drops the voltage below 10 volts or so, you may need to run a non-resistor wire from the
ignition switch to the coil’s + terminal or run a +12V wire directly from the ignition switch to the red Hot-Spark
ignition wire. Make sure that the ignition switch terminal to which you connect this wire has power only when the
ignition switch is in the ON position.
I have tried this think with a direct 12 volt source from battery. I have gone back and tried my old coil temporarily. I have tried with or without ballast resistor in series with ignition wire. I have tested pickup to be fine according to troubleshooting off site. It is within spec. I'm about to give up. I appreciate the response.
Here are the instructions:
Test the charging system's maximum voltage: Check the voltage reading at the coil's + terminal, engine running. If
the voltage measures more than +14.0 volts, at any RPM level, you'll need to replace the voltage regulator, install a
coil with 3.0 Ohms or more internal primary resistance and/or install a 1.0 to 1.4 Ohm external ballast resistor between
the coil's + terminal and the HotSpark ignition's red wire.
Included: Packet of white thermal transfer paste. Clean distributor's breaker plate spotlessly clean. Apply a uniform
layer of the included packet of white thermal paste to bottom of ignition module to ensure better cooling of ignition
module.
Wiring Installation Basics:
1. Begin with a fully-charged battery. Turn on the ignition switch. With engine not running, using a voltmeter in the 20
Volt DC mode, check that the voltage, measured at the coil's + terminal, is around +12.5 volts, about the same as
battery voltage. The red voltmeter lead should touch the coil's + terminal while the black voltmeter lead is touching
engine ground. If voltage reading is too low or there’s no reading, the battery’s terminals or ground connection may be
corroded and need cleaning. Some vehicles have a resistor wire running from the ignition switch to the coil’s +
terminal. If this resistor wire drops the voltage below 10 volts or so, you may need to run a non-resistor wire from the
ignition switch to the coil’s + terminal or run a +12V wire directly from the ignition switch to the red Hot-Spark
ignition wire. Make sure that the ignition switch terminal to which you connect this wire has power only when the
ignition switch is in the ON position.
Re: "Hot Spark" electronic ignition
Man, kinda baffling - if it calls for 12-volts you should be fine w/o a resistor but you've tried it both ways, tested module, etc...! 
You might have to call 'em on Monday.
You might have to call 'em on Monday.'cause Johno says you gotta have a sig pic!
Re: "Hot Spark" electronic ignition
I definitely am going to call them. It's one of those......I want to drive my Comet things ya know!! I feel like there is something obvious that I am not doing. I have watched videos and the installers are "bing, bang, boom, bada bing!" and the car is up and running. I'm really boggled. I feel like maybe I am missing a ground somewhere or something like that. I appreciate the response though.
Do I need specific plug wires, cap, rotor, or anything like that?
Do I need specific plug wires, cap, rotor, or anything like that?
Re: "Hot Spark" electronic ignition
Not that I've ever heard - from what I can see this and the Pertronix are similar...install is as you've described and usually without a hitch!! Definitely post back when you get it figured out! All I can think of is despite testing, something's gotta be wrong with the module.
'cause Johno says you gotta have a sig pic!
Re: "Hot Spark" electronic ignition
For what it is worth....The module I had was bad. I can't tell you how many hours I wasted messing with the Hot Spark unit. I sent it back and they gave me a no hassle refund or replacment. I opted to get a refund. The guys there were nice about it and said "they usually work right away". Yesterday I put in a Pertronix 1266 ignitor unit I purchased for $10 more and it started first try............. Go figure. Thanks for the input.
Re: "Hot Spark" electronic ignition
Glad it's working and that stinks about the wasted time!!
'cause Johno says you gotta have a sig pic!