Your PCV is on the back of the pass side valve cover. I doubt that’s contributing to the issue but I would run the hose to the front, center port on the carb; I believe that’s manifold vacuum on those. Where it’s at now is typically used for a brake booster. The difference is the size of hole/amount of vacuum.
I’ve found Motorcraft EV-50 PCV’s work really well on a lot of SBF’s. You can get a vintage NOS valve or a new one (Id try to stick with Standard Motor Products brand). You’ll need a 1/2-3/8” hose barb adapter and appropriate hoses...the EV-50 uses a 1/2 hose.
I have 3 302's & all of them get heat soaked to some degree,, if I stop for just the right amount of time with it hot. I've come to expect it. if it doesnt crank right up I'll hold the throttle on the floor until it cranks & clears out. (that's the best way to crank a flooded carbed engine.) It acts like a flooded engine, so I guess it boils the fuel up & into the engine somehow. I have plastic spacers under the carb on one of my engines but it still does it. I have a wood spacer I plan to put under the carb,hoping it helps. one other idea I have for mine that might help yours too,,,I'm thinking of putting a switch on my electric choke. I'm thinking that thing being heated all of the time may be adding to & heating the carb even more. I think just the heat of the motor will be enough to keep the choke open,so if I had a switch I could turn it off after it gets warmed up.
I just finally got to drive my daughters 65 comet to the alignment shop. We live in Illinois so it gets to 100 quite often today was 92 the car temp guage was 210 so I used my temp gun and it was 202 at the sensor and 206 at the head. To me this is too hot the motor I believe is a 302 bored .30 over. So I got a champion 2 core radiator new and made a full fan shroud so I am not happy I thought it would be cooler. Anyone have any ideas for me I am not sure what pressure the new champion radiator cap is. I am also using an original fan is there a better flex fan out there a part number would be good. My daughter will be driving this so thats why I would like it to be as cool as possible.
Thanks
Having a car that will not cool is the most annoying situation I can think of. I just received the radiator for my Comet that will be eliminate the problem before it even happens. I saw this article: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/e ... -radiator/
And decided that the same idea should work on a Comet, I bought a U.S.Radiator four core copper radiator that was designed for a big block, air conditioned ‘68 Mustang. I will use the Mustang saddle type mounts instead of bolting it to the radiator core support. I will also use a factory flex fan and a shroud. I have a N.O.S. radiator core support so cutting it will hurt a little but knowing that the Boss engine will run cool in traffic is worth it.
fair67 wrote:I just finally got to drive my daughters 65 comet to the alignment shop. We live in Illinois so it gets to 100 quite often today was 92 the car temp guage was 210 so I used my temp gun and it was 202 at the sensor and 206 at the head. To me this is too hot the motor I believe is a 302 bored .30 over. So I got a champion 2 core radiator new and made a full fan shroud so I am not happy I thought it would be cooler. Anyone have any ideas for me I am not sure what pressure the new champion radiator cap is. I am also using an original fan is there a better flex fan out there a part number would be good. My daughter will be driving this so thats why I would like it to be as cool as possible.
Thanks
What thermastat are you running? 190°? A 180°one might run a little cooler
A/FX wrote:Having a car that will not cool is the most annoying situation I can think of. I just received the radiator for my Comet that will be eliminate the problem before it even happens. I saw this article: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/e ... -radiator/
And decided that the same idea should work on a Comet, I bought a U.S.Radiator four core copper radiator that was designed for a big block, air conditioned ‘68 Mustang. I will use the Mustang saddle type mounts instead of bolting it to the radiator core support. I will also use a factory flex fan and a shroud. I have a N.O.S. radiator core support so cutting it will hurt a little but knowing that the Boss engine will run cool in traffic is worth it.
What they said in that article is exactly how I feel about the early rad size. barely adequate if conditions are perfect. no room for leeway. Probably the smallest rad to ever be put in front of a V8. bigger is better. Jim I cant blame you for wanting to keep the stock appearing look of a 67 bigblock rad, you have a highend build,mine is just beater,more of a daily driver. I went with a crossflow , a 2 row with 1'' flutes like he mentioned. I also turned the battery tray 90°to have more room for a bigger rad. cutting the support didnt bother me a bit,not like an engine running hot does. It ran fine with a flexalite flex fan & no shroud. I have since added a shroud. getting ready for AC I thought it may be needed sitting in traffic,if I want to keep the ac on!
fair67 wrote:
To be honest I am not sure I bought the car with the motor assembled and kinds running. It runs good now but I do not know the thermastat.
The type of thermostat you use will also affect how the car cools. I have used Robert Shaw high performance thermostats with very good results. They are not inexpensive but they are built very well and have a by pass feature that other brands do not offer. Also swing the largest fan you can fit and use a shroud. A factory style fan from a performance engine will pull more air than a standard fan. ( stainless steel flex blade)
Jim
My 289 Comet is running a US Radiator 3 row copper/brass radiator, stock steel “extra cooling” 5 blade fan and a stock shroud and runs cool all day long. I’m also running a Stant “SuperStat” 180deg thermostat.
fair67 wrote:
To be honest I am not sure I bought the car with the motor assembled and kinds running. It runs good now but I do not know the thermastat.
I'd probably have to try a new 180.
Ok I bit the bullet and pulled the thermostat out it was a 195 so I am actually wondering about trying a 160 but 180 minimum. Thanks you guys were right about it I will buy the higher quality one for sure.
A/FX wrote:Having a car that will not cool is the most annoying situation I can think of. I just received the radiator for my Comet that will be eliminate the problem before it even happens. I saw this article: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/e ... -radiator/
And decided that the same idea should work on a Comet, I bought a U.S.Radiator four core copper radiator that was designed for a big block, air conditioned ‘68 Mustang. I will use the Mustang saddle type mounts instead of bolting it to the radiator core support. I will also use a factory flex fan and a shroud. I have a N.O.S. radiator core support so cutting it will hurt a little but knowing that the Boss engine will run cool in traffic is worth it.
I'm sure your setup will work great even though 68 big block Mustangs weren't usually known for how cool they ran. I did a similar deal with a 70 Torino 429 SCJ replacement copper radiator with the saddle mounts you mentioned. From what I found,this has 30% more cooling capacity than the 68.Fits nicely with the support mod and the Torino shroud fits perfect upside down. Runs at 180 deg all day long with the other big block pushing 600+ hp.
Depending on what type of hood you have,there can be some clearance problems with the saddle mounts and the cap.
fair67 wrote:
Ok I bit the bullet and pulled the thermostat out it was a 195 so I am actually wondering about trying a 160 but 180 minimum. Thanks you guys were right about it I will buy the higher quality one for sure.
it is possible that a 160 may affect your heater,,,may not blow very hot. but then again it may work fine. it may be worth a try. but if a 180 doesnt run right you probably have something wrong somewhere. 195 is pretty close to the numbers you mentioned with 210 being the hottest you mentioned I believe? so if you use a 180 & it stays the same amount,,,about 15° above that around 195° hopefully, & that wouldn't be bad.
fair67 wrote:
Ok I bit the bullet and pulled the thermostat out it was a 195 so I am actually wondering about trying a 160 but 180 minimum. Thanks you guys were right about it I will buy the higher quality one for sure.
it is possible that a 160 may affect your heater,,,may not blow very hot. but then again it may work fine. it may be worth a try. but if a 180 doesnt run right you probably have something wrong somewhere. 195 is pretty close to the numbers you mentioned with 210 being the hottest you mentioned I believe? so if you use a 180 & it stays the same amount,,,about 15° above that around 195° hopefully, & that wouldn't be bad.
Thank you very much for the reply I appreciate it. We will not drive the car in the winter so I am not worried about the heater I just want the car to run as cool as possible because my daughter will be driving it without supervision...LOL... I agree that a 180 would be better then what we have now.
You can get a vintage NOS valve or a new one (Id try to stick with Standard Motor Products brand). You’ll need a 1/2-3/8” hose barb adapter and appropriate hoses...the EV-50 uses a 1/2 hose.
