Root's 64 Cyclone Build

[Rootsy]

And just so everyone is aware - his hoods come pretty much ready to bolt on for the price you pay. Everything drilled and tapped, etc.

Also regarding the sway bar - I ended up just buying a new 1” one from opentracker. Will need to wait until I have weight on the front and compressed to install the end links.

So if anyone wants a basically NOS 1 1/8 bar and bushings let me know….

[Rootsy]

Weather is getting nice so back at it!

Last weekend was the local car show and swap meet. Wasn’t there 30 minutes and I spotted these. Price was too attractive to let them stay where they were. Not sure if I want to use them or have my steel ones re-chromed.



Been working on wrapping things up on the underside so I can pull her off the rotisserie. Fuel pump bracket fabricated and mounted. Still need to mount filters and make lines. Hopefully I can find some time this week. Everything is isolated with rubber so hopefully it won’t vibrate the body too badly.





Today I worked on finally fabricating a driveshaft loop. Tunnels in these cars aren’t exactly generous. I used the cross bar from the competition engineering kit and then rolled a strip of 1/4 x 2 HR strip to somewhat match the brake line template I made. It fits pretty well and I want to add another piece Inside the hoop to help contain everything but that needs to wait until the drivetrain is installed and car is on the ground.









331 goes on the Dyno May 3. Here’s to hoping I remembered to tighten all of the rod nuts

[Boss/Cyclone]

Nice find, I assume the Monroe swap meet. I was out of town or I would have went.

[Rootsy]

Yes Monroe. Outside of these I only saw one other person with a few odd and end comet parts. Was a decent size swap meet. I am getting quite the collection of stuff so I might need to setup there for the Fall meet.

[Rootsy]

Just about have the fuel system wrapped up now. I do want to replace the tank outlet with an AN hardline fitting rather than slip on and clamp down. Pump is an Aeromotive H.O. that will support 600 hp (90 gph) and is internally regulated @ 7 psi - the intent is to not need to use an external regulator. We will see how it goes.

Put an Aeromotive 1.25” 100 micron SS element filter between the tank and pump and a 1.25” 40 micron replaceable element between pump and carb. This is following the recommendations from Aeromotive. I do have a 2” 10 micron if I want to go finer.

Hose is all -6 AN CPE nylon braid over SS. Looks like Aeromotive recommends -8 from tank to pump, missed that aspect of
It but I reckon I will be fine.

Here’s to hoping the rearend doesn’t interfere with anything…

[SASSY]

Very nice!

[Caveman49]

Again, what Fred said!

[Rootsy]

Spent Friday afternoon getting the little Ford ready for her trip to the Dyno later this week. Since it has been sitting here in the corner for at least 2 years I primed it, checked all of the valve adjustments, put a curve in the MSD, verified timing pointer and TDC aligned and sealed and installed all of the plugs in the manifold since I will only need two this week (and one once in the car).

So here ya go, place your best SWAG for what she will make.

Deets -

90’s XXX marked 5.0 block.
331 CID (3.25 x 4.030)
Piston to deck is right at 0.005”
Scat cast crank and I beams - 28 oz (balanced)
Power bond SFI damper
10.22:1 Static (mahle flat tops - 6.5 cc) / 8.56:1 dynamic
Felpro 9333TP1 head gasket
TFS 190 11R cylinder heads (56 cc basic CNC runners)
Comp Hyd Roller (cam card attached) - degreed to 106 degree IC.
Elgin Hyd rollers - uses original dog bones and spider
Comp roller rockers (1.6:1)
Edelbrock RPM airgap
Pro-Systems 4150 (780) - baseline tune attached
Driven 10W30 break in oil will switch to 20W50 VR1 for tuning.
MSD has purple bushing, 1 blue, 1 light silver spring installed.

no additional porting or matching or cleanup performed. Still up in the air on trying to tune with a spacer(s)

will run without water pump or alternator using shop long tube headers and Sunoco 94.

[Joe Travers]

Still up in the air on trying to tune with a spacer(s)

I'd throw on open 1" spacer. It should fit under the hood and help insulate carb from heat a bit.

Joe

[Caveman49]

Four an a quarter