COMET CENTRAL

Well she is off the spit. Time to mock up the drivetrain, knock out a few other things like figuring out a cage and then start on getting the sheet metal all straight, flat and smooth. http://jcrootandsons.com/photogallery/var/albums/1964-Cyclone/IMG_3391.jpeg?m=1715388891 First step - tie the motor...

Thanks Jim. It looked larger to me for some reason

What diameter is your tube?

Doesn’t NHRA require a 6 pt minimum for cars faster than 11.50? How does that work for the 4 pt as 11.50 isn’t “slow” these days. I really wanted the 4 pt so I could have seatbelts. I have no interest in swing out or fixed front bars. The wife won’t think it’s cool having to crawl over or around tho...

Are those tubes to the trunk bolted on? I feel like I see some
Fasteners about a foot behind the main loop.

Thanks for the PVC idea - I have never really done this but I really
Like your setup.

So I think I am going to put a 4 pt cage in. It will need to be a prefab kit or I will need to measure and have custom bent. With that said, has anyone used any of the off the shelf kits such as Rhodes? Opinions? Experiences? Plan is to sandwich and bolt in. I would also like the trunk bars to follo...

20W50 VR1 for me and the 331. Broke it in and ran all dyno pulls with Driven 10W30 break in oil + comp break in additive. HV68 Melling pump was 65 PSI cold and off idle and 35 PSI at idle after 6 pulls with the oil pretty hot. I put another pint of the comp break in lube in with the VR1. Probably go...

Thanks Jim. My 8” measures Housing flange width - 52.5” Perch C/L distance - 43” Need to pull drums off to measure axle flange width. I think I will stay stock width unless someone gives me a logical reason to narrow it up. I have no idea what rims I want to use. Maybe some 15” Weld pro stars or rod...

Thanks Joe and everyone else. Not sure what I am going to do. QP will build me a completely new rearend with disc brakes for under $3k. I have a friend in the torque control industry who has a NIB Detroit Locker I can have which is attractive because we all want to pinch pennies and I am more than c...

Well I am only running a water pump and alternator on the front so I say that kills 20 HP. No idea what I will lose using the Doug’s Tri-Y vs those dyno long tubes - maybe 15? I have a T10 feeding into a driveshaft with 1310 u joints feeding an 8”… no real idea what driveline loss is. That T10 I hea...

Can anyone tell me the pitfalls of using a 56 1/2” flange to flange 9” housing! In my mind I only see it affecting the rim offset. Am I missing anything else? I currently don’t have any rims so getting what I want I would think make this a non-issue Can anyone confirm that the rim mounting surfaces ...

Time to start building a 9” and looking for a Toploader… I wasn’t quite expecting this… http://jcrootandsons.com/photogallery/var/albums/1964-Cyclone/IMG_3353.jpeg?m=1714779537 http://jcrootandsons.com/photogallery/var/albums/1964-Cyclone/IMG_3358.jpeg?m=1714843535 https://youtu.be/sGD2EP39lME?si=eg...

Got the little Windsor loaded on the dyno today and everything leak checked and initially adjusted. Was impressed - hit the button and she came right to life… testing begins 1000 hours tomorrow.

https://youtu.be/8Orm7xNH_og?si=KkNWxGdSs5tkb3u3

https://youtu.be/SQoYSGUixm8?si=cbFvuiA5zs93Vkua

Tim Mills in Toledo is making hoods for 64 and will be expanding offerings as time goes on. Got a hood from him recently and it was very good quality. Tim used to be the glass man @ Crites.

H.O.

Intake profile - 13160F
Exhaust profile - 13162F

Cam has 4 degrees of advance ground into it. When I degreed
It, it came out at 2 degrees and I had to move it 2 degrees with the crank sprocket.