Upgrade your steering ( 65 V8 steering)

[poboyjo65]

Yes there are several disc kits for the 65 spindles, & most are the 4 piston kelsey hayse type kits like mustangs had. I used CSRP . the ''SWAP 1'' kit uses them.looks like covid has driven up the price another hundred & it says rotors dont have the slots;
https://discbrakeswap.com/Mustang%20Dis ... A4iQoNzt8A
a few years ago this was the best all around kit, cheapest most complete kit with everthing you need except hard lines & fluid.
& like fred said you wont ever have to worry about not finding parts since they are mustang, with millions of them still out there & will always be.they work very well with no need for a power booster.

[lavron]

Yea Better shocks would help a lot.Your frontend is jealous of the rear! & with adjustable ones ,surely you could dial it in to suit you.
Do you still have your old steering box? that would get your turning radius back. why did you go with R&P ? to get PS? It's probably the same rack as a MII. if you put your old box back in ,eps would be a on the cheap.

Unfortunately I sold the whole stock steering assembly. It was a power steering set up. It needed a lot of work because it was pretty loose. I just thought replacing it with a R&P would make it a modern setup. Right now I wish I would have fixed the stock setup. Didn't know
I'm going to keep looking into this.Now you do so you just have to decide what is best for you. Really is a bunch of info on-site dealing with steering on these older cars to make them handle better so there I obviously room to improve it there are just many options so you have to weigh your options according to what others have done or are doing now, most guys are willing to share opinions and what they think worked for them at certain price points and ease of install. You are going to find out if you haven’t already I am not the kind of guy to buy preengineered kits and just bolt them. On, not saying there is anything wrong with that and I may have been on the road sooner but This is supposed to be a fun project and I enjoy doing those things to create my own unique stuff and know I can pick my replacement parts up at the local parts store so I avoid having custom parts and try nd stick to factory parts when possible for items prone to failure not that the steering rack is but it is a bone stock ‘74 Pinto/M2 unit, they are far cheaper than a replacement steering box.one other thing I will add aMonte Carlo bar across the top between the fenders adding triangulated strength there and firming any flex left in the front of the car all about some more over kill

tom

No power steering for me, my old box has no shaft on it now but I feel it turns plenty tight for me R&P seems like a better design to me, less sloppy than the reciprocating steering box, my only other thing I cheaped out on was steering joints and replacing them with Borgsens might tighten the wheel play a bit more but when you are used to the original setup that has at least a half a turn before tires start to turn the R&P seems pretty tight. shock change might be considered with adjustable pressure at least on front I could take pressure down some to help with front end stiffness if I need to, all a matter of dialing it injustice to summaries why I decided on a M2 R&P Setup on My car; #1 cost, #2parts availability , the street rod crowd has helped a lot on that Off the shelf parts, even though I need to determine what my front rotors are, they are 11” Ford/Dodge pattern5x4.5, my guess is Granada rotors it seems to me they may have an odd front wheel bearing that is M2 spindle on one side and the other fits the rotor. I actually have a set of plans for a totally DIY M2 setup I purchased when planning this all I guess I can dig around and find those and see what rotor spindle setup they we’re recommending even though right now it unimportant, I don’t need to change rotors now or in the near future, maybe years from now even, sometimes I just like to know (or even some kind of dodge rotor the front brake setup was a kit from Speedway motors, I. Know the calipers are GM metric like on a ‘74 Monte CarloCarlo, easy to get replacement pads for at any local parts store.Certainly overall cost for what I felt I was gaining was my determining factor, the added strength of the rack running between the lower. Frame rails, needing to replace my current sloppy front suspension and box, etc. Gaining front disc brakes in the process something I wanted.4 disc manual brakes achieved with the Town car master cylinder that was a. Direct bolt on and a manual 4 wheel disc master with line connections on the right side facing inside made for a nice clean install, something I always strive for being a bit OCD at times
Not sure I posted this here but I seem to remember the turning radius issue was related to whether you were using the rack in a rear steer setup,(less turning ) or a front steer as designed kept a tighter radius not positive on that one but I do know there are 1000s of cars out there running
M2 setups without issues

[SASSY]

If you are looking into 65 spindles there are several options to consider.
Someone else will have to step in because Im not totally knowable here but, lowered spindles, spindles built for different brake assembles, also I understand bearing requirements.
Im very happy with the Kelsey Hayes style GT350 Mustang brakes. Fit in a 14" wheel and parts availability.
Fred

Are there any disc brake conversions that make use of those 1965 V8 spindles? I'll eventually swap discs in up front, but had hoped to put that upgrade off to take care of more urgent stuff, like the worn out pitman and rod ends and some engine issues...

...or should I just get used to the idea of doing a disc swap now so I only have to buy one set of spindles?

Thanks again. Your key info is getting my ride back on the road...

K,,,, you dont have to buy 65 spindles up front. The Kelsey/Hayes disc brakes bolt up on your 63.5 V8 spindles.
Get the 67 pitman, 65 Falcon centerlink and inner tierods. Reuse your 63 sleeves and outter tierods.
This work but 65 spindles have better geomtery.
The centerlink and inner tierods probably have a more positive effect on steering and the discs will certainly improve stopping. Then in the future add the spindles and related outter tierods.,,, understand?
Fred

[poboyjo65]

you dont have to buy 65 spindles up front. The Kelsey/Hayes disc brakes bolt up on your 63.5 V8 spindles.
Get the 67 pitman, 65 Falcon centerlink and inner tierods. Reuse your 63 sleeves and outter tierods.
This work but 65 spindles have better geomtery.
The centerlink and inner tierods probably have a more positive effect on steering and the discs will certainly improve stopping. Then in the future add the spindles and related outter tierods.,,, understand?
Fred

why go thru it all twice Fred? It'll drive much better with 65 v8 spindles . would be 2 alignments, twice working under the car,would cost more in the long run. you can find spindles for a couple hundred,I think there is a set on FB right now.

[SASSY]

Johnno I agree but OPer has stated he has more issues than just the frontend. At least this way he can move forward.
I always found the drum brakes more of an issue than the steering
Fred

[daves63merc]

Yes there are several disc kits for the 65 spindles, & most are the 4 piston kelsey hayse type kits like mustangs had. I used CSRP . the ''SWAP 1'' kit uses them.looks like covid has driven up the price another hundred & it says rotors dont have the slots;
https://discbrakeswap.com/Mustang%20Dis ... A4iQoNzt8A
a few years ago this was the best all around kit, cheapest most complete kit with everthing you need except hard lines & fluid.
& like fred said you wont ever have to worry about not finding parts since they are mustang, with millions of them still out there & will always be.they work very well with no need for a power booster.

I think a single set of spindles won't break me financially, so I'm gonna upgrade to those '65 spindles I think and look into one of those disc kits. I have just the stock single-pot master, and you said those calipers don't require a power booster? That was the part I was hesitant to jump into, new booster and Master cylinder, lines, etc...

I once converted drum brakes on a 1970 Landcruiser FJ40 to newer Toyota pickup discs, also 4-piston calipers. I didn't add power, just split off the master and proportion-valved the rear brake circuit. It took a toooooon of foot to stop that girl though. I didn't mind it, because I could get the front end wet when I was wheeling and still stop. I couldn't really let anyone else drive it without a lesson though...

Thanks again, guys!

[poboyjo65]

for regular driving I cant tell that they are not power brakes. If I have to slow down pretty quick I notice it a little but still is fairly easy to push. it has a better feel of the road than PB do. booster is simply not needed.

I think all of those kits come with a new dual master cyl. ,a lot safer than the single stock one.if you get a leak with the single you will have no brakes! with the dual front & rear are separated so if one goes you still have the other. comes with new hoses too,but not the hard lines. most guys put new hard lines on because of the age of the old ones.

[SASSY]

I think those of us that don't have a booster use a 15/16 bore master cylinder. A little more pedal stroke but easier to create the fluid pressure.
Fred

[SASSY]

why go thru it all twice Fred? would be 2 alignments, twice working under the car,would cost more in the long run. you can find spindles for a couple hundred

I'm sure you'd agree that is the way I do things,,,? Lol
Fred

[Joe Travers]

By all means, change out the single master cylinder!!! Disc brake conversion is a great excuse to do so.
Had a failure driving my Cyclone one day and had to downshift and lock up the rear end to keep from getting creamed at a red light.
My '63 has manual disc/drum and pedal effort is easy but still watch stopping distance very closely.

Joe

[poboyjo65]

By all means, change out the single master cylinder!!! Disc brake conversion is a great excuse to do so.
Had a failure driving my Cyclone one day and had to downshift and lock up the rear end to keep from getting creamed at a red light.
My '63 has manual disc/drum and pedal effort is easy but still watch stopping distance very closely.

Joe

key thing for easy pedal effort is the bore of the master cyl.. good thing about getting a kit is it is figured out for you,so you get the proper MC for your set up.

the part I was hesitant to jump into, new booster and Master cylinder, lines, etc...

putting on the parts is easy,
If you are hesitant about the bleeding get some of the bleeder bolts with the check ball in them. I used them on mine & no need for an assistant.& you leave them on so it will always be easy to bleed.

[A/FX]

By all means, change out the single master cylinder!!! Disc brake conversion is a great excuse to do so.
Had a failure driving my Cyclone one day and had to downshift and lock up the rear end to keep from getting creamed at a red light.
My '63 has manual disc/drum and pedal effort is easy but still watch stopping distance very closely.

Joe

key thing for easy pedal effort is the bore of the master cyl.. good thing about getting a kit is it is figured out for you,so you get the proper MC for your set up.

the part I was hesitant to jump into, new booster and Master cylinder, lines, etc...

putting on the parts is easy,
If you are hesitant about the bleeding get some of the bleeder bolts with the check ball in them. I used them on mine & no need for an assistant.& you leave them on so it will always be easy to bleed.

I definitely agree with installing the Speed Bleeders. http://www.speedbleeder.com/
I have the, in the Cyclone and they make bleeding the system easy and without an assistant.
One note about a disc brake conversion, you don’t have to go overboard. An economical set up is just to used factory Ford parts from a donor vehicle, Granada, Monarch, Mustang, Maverick, Comet, etc. if you research the set ups you will find a dual MC with out a power booster. Sometimes it might be necessary to instal a residual check valve to hold pressure in the line, a 2lb valve will firm a soft pedal and not allow drag on the rotors.
Jim

[Joe Travers]

One note about a disc brake conversion, you don’t have to go overboard. An economical set up is just to used factory Ford parts from a donor vehicle, Granada, Monarch, Mustang, Maverick, Comet, etc. if you research the set ups you will find a dual MC with out a power booster. Sometimes it might be necessary to install a residual check valve to hold pressure in the line, a 2lb valve will firm a soft pedal and not allow drag on the rotors.

This is the route I took on my last Mustang build. If you can find a car in a salvage yard, you can pull the parts, order kits and rebuild it yourself. That's a big if, now days. The reason I got away from restorations 25 years ago was lack of donor cars locally, before the internet era. Had to operate out of the Hemmings phone book and wait months on used parts. That got old very quickly.

Joe

[daves63merc]

Ok, one more question, will my stock 63.5 comet drums still work with the 65 spindles? This would only be temporary until I swap in the discs, but I was hoping to do that one later...

Thanks again!

Dave

[poboyjo65]

Ok, one more question, will my stock 63.5 comet drums still work with the 65 spindles? This would only be temporary until I swap in the discs, but I was hoping to do that one later...

Thanks again!

Dave

that's a good question. your car being a factory V8 I would think so. I have some 65 v8 drums/hubs that I could measure,or trade for a moon pie & RC cola.