" would I still need to adjust (lash?) the valves? The engine runs pretty good for its age,"...
just $ .02 more
inexpensive ' stem seals may solve smoking issue if they are only contributing issue.
... sounds like getting closer to being simpler to learn to remove and reinstall the cylinder head or find willing party. After removal most areas can still yield a shop to do a "valve job" with a better evaluation than over the web unseen etc.
If the engine internals are in reasonable shape, a 'valve job' and attentive tuning can optimize the available drivability of the 144.
R & R for a Falcon six head is definitely not beyond a novice in a backyard or back lot with the forum and You-Tube .
.
my '61 Comet was rescued from junkyard, 15 years and I'm at least half done'
before rescue , during, and now
. .
have fun
61 4dr. 144cu. engine valve stem seals
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- Posts: 156
- Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2020 8:23 pm
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- Posts: 106
- Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2019 3:57 pm
Re: 61 4dr. 144cu. engine valve stem seals
Thanks, yes, would like to do the adjustment myself.
My manual has just a few steps for this adjustments, although not very clear.
1. make a couple marks on the crankshaft pulley 120 degrees apart. So there is an A, B and C. (3 marks?, not clear).
2. rotate crankshaft until #1 cylinder is at TDC, both valves should be closed, timing mark on pulley and cylinder front cover should be in line.
3. use feeler gauge, adjust intake and exhaust to .016. cold.
4. repeat for other valves turning crankshaft 1/3 turn, adjusting valves in firing order sequence.
5. then warm car up, with engine idling check the valve clearance again, suppose to be .016 for both valves. (not sure how this can be
accomplished while engine is running and valves going up and down and rocker arms going as well. maybe will be clearer when i see it)
If there is a simpler way to adjust the valves, I'm all ears. I saw a video of a mechanic who lashed the valves on 200cu. 6 cylinder mustang.
and after he got the cylinder to TDC he just grabbed the push rod and wiggled it up and down while tightening the adjuster until all the wiggle
was gone.
thanks for any tips on this process.
My manual has just a few steps for this adjustments, although not very clear.
1. make a couple marks on the crankshaft pulley 120 degrees apart. So there is an A, B and C. (3 marks?, not clear).
2. rotate crankshaft until #1 cylinder is at TDC, both valves should be closed, timing mark on pulley and cylinder front cover should be in line.
3. use feeler gauge, adjust intake and exhaust to .016. cold.
4. repeat for other valves turning crankshaft 1/3 turn, adjusting valves in firing order sequence.
5. then warm car up, with engine idling check the valve clearance again, suppose to be .016 for both valves. (not sure how this can be
accomplished while engine is running and valves going up and down and rocker arms going as well. maybe will be clearer when i see it)
If there is a simpler way to adjust the valves, I'm all ears. I saw a video of a mechanic who lashed the valves on 200cu. 6 cylinder mustang.
and after he got the cylinder to TDC he just grabbed the push rod and wiggled it up and down while tightening the adjuster until all the wiggle
was gone.
thanks for any tips on this process.
- Joe Travers
- Posts: 2585
- Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2020 6:23 pm
- Location: Louisiana
Re: 61 4dr. 144cu. engine valve stem seals
If your camshaft is original, the engine has solid lifters. The 200 has hydraulic lifters and the valve adjustment is different.
Solid lifters have slight clatter and should have that 0.016" slack in the rocker arm when valve is closed (why they clatter).
If you are in doubt, pick up a cheap borescope that hooks up to your phone or laptop and use the camera app to peek down the pushrod hole and snap a picture. It can come in handy down the road for other things and is well worth the money.
I had one of these to plug into laptop but broke it. Need to pick up another- https://www.ebay.com/itm/225597528495?c ... 0ae7348125
Joe
Solid lifters have slight clatter and should have that 0.016" slack in the rocker arm when valve is closed (why they clatter).
If you are in doubt, pick up a cheap borescope that hooks up to your phone or laptop and use the camera app to peek down the pushrod hole and snap a picture. It can come in handy down the road for other things and is well worth the money.
I had one of these to plug into laptop but broke it. Need to pick up another- https://www.ebay.com/itm/225597528495?c ... 0ae7348125
Joe