Wiring ideas for your car

Discussions about general body work and modifications
lavron
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by lavron »

tomb22 wrote:Looks good Mike except the inertia switch. It should be between relay 3 and the fuel pump and no ground wire. I'm sure you would have found this, but I thought I should point it out.
Thanks Tom, I actually stuck it in that way so if it got triggered it would break the ground and turn the relay off but it might not be able to work that way so the way you indicated works for me too.

I did not catch any break on this :roll: I got my oil pressure fuel pump switch today and a couple of fittings to hook it up, everything screws together about one or two threads so I don't have anything that matches :roll:

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Left to right there is a stainless 1/4" to 1/8" NPT adapter to screw into the oil galley on the engine (have no idea if it will fit the block) then a 1/8" brass street tee (supposed to be NPT but think it is not) and finally the oil pressure switch, it too is supposed to be 1/8" NPT. Anyway nothing fits together and the switch won't fit the stainless adapter at all.

Currently I am not sure the oil galley port is 1/4" NPT so I will check it on the 200 block tomorrow (should be the same, I think all Fords are the same from that era) and then take the switch to the parts store and find the right fittings.

This is the hard part of doing this stuff online, you never really know for sure it is all going to fit together until you have the parts in hand. Of course the two fittings were cheap so it is no big deal.

See Ya,
Mike
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lavron
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by lavron »

Just a question. What do you guys think of mounting the fuse boxes under the hood? I have water proof boxes, I know I have mounted them under the console already but can move them if I want as I have not connected anything to them yet, guess I am looking for pros and cons to both.

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Mike
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tomb22
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by tomb22 »

Seems like all newer cars have fuse boxes under the hood. I put one under the hood in the comet. Fuses and relays for the electric fans and head lights. The ones in newer cars all have the covers up and most are not water proof but rain proof. I would go for it Mike. A lot easier to change fuses under the hood than under the dash.
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lavron
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by lavron »

tomb22 wrote:A lot easier to change fuses under the hood than under the dash
That was my thought as well. I think all my boxes are marine ones and I have plenty of room under the hood :P

See Ya,
Mike
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poboyjo65
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by poboyjo65 »

I saw these & thought I'd post them
https://www.trendingsale.co/pages/termi ... JU#4899675
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Johno

tomb22
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by tomb22 »

That's a good buy
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lavron
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by lavron »

I thought I would add some more on this thread because it relates to electrical.

I ordered my 130 AMP 3G alternator last night and a 2 groove pulley, hopefully it will fit on there, I have the wring pigtails already.

I ordered a V6 Mustang alternator from '94-2000s (can't remember the exact ending) it should be one with ears that are opposite of each other like the older ones, the pulley is for a 2G alternator and from what I read it fits on there, still not clear if I will have to add any spacers behind the pulley, I guess I will wait and see.

I will make sure and show how I wire it up when the time comes.

Wiring is looming ever closer on my build.

See Ya,
Mike
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lavron
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by lavron »

Trying to figure out the headlight switch wiring since I am eliminating the fuse box from the bottom of it, I have mostly figured it out.

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The two I am not sure about the ones I have marked for the headlights and maybe it makes no difference; "12V in Headlights" and "Headlights" I assume either could be the power on a 2 pole switch because they are either connected or not connected.

Because I am using relays I figured I could just jump "12V in" and "12V in Headlights" together.

I also assume the front park lights could be attached to the taillight plug if you wanted the park lights on any time the lights were on?

Let me know if this looks labeled right.

See Ya,
Mike
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tomb22
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by tomb22 »

Here is a picture of a 65 head light switch that is labeled. Looks like your switch has one less connector. Connection A which is the brake switch feed. I think what your labeling as headlights should be labeled battery feed and 12 volts in headlights as headlights. Your 12v in is good and Dome light is good. These are just connections between a switch when you turn the head light switch.

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Hope this helps
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lavron
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by lavron »

tomb22 wrote:
Fri Jul 24, 2020 11:26 pm
I think what your labeling as headlights should be labeled battery feed and 12 volts in headlights as headlights.
I hooked it up to power to figure out what connected to what and just knew those two were connected together when the switch was pulled all the way out.

Right now I am thinking about buying a new switch for a Ford pickup (probably fits other Fords) with a pigtail so if I ever have to replace it in the future it will be just unplugged and plug the new one in, most likely would never happen but I will make it easier on the next guy as long as he can figure out what switch I used :P
tomb22 wrote:
Fri Jul 24, 2020 11:26 pm
Looks like your switch has one less connector. Connection A which is the brake switch feed.
I wouldn't mind having that extra connection because my brake switch will be on top of the pedal mount, this is the switch I am getting and it has 8 wires as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B ... PDKIKX0DER the reason for this one is it has a pigtail available to fit it.

The wiring diagram helps.

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Mike
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tomb22
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by tomb22 »

In my diagram, connector A is a brake feed wire that goes to the switch on the brake peddle after it goes thru the built in circuit breaker in the switch. It was the way the factory protected the brake light circuit. When we add circuit panels with fuses we can eliminate switches such as theses.
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lavron
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by lavron »

Ok so now I have a question about the turn signal switch, I may have put mine back in today and I was checking the leads out and labeling them for a later time, I think I have everything right and I did not take the turn signal switch apart as it is the one that was in the car and worked ok, I used the OHM meter to check for continuity.

I know the blue/yellow wire is the horn and it is just a ground when the button is pushed.

The blue wire comes from the flasher, in my case, the "LOAD" side of the electronic flasher for LEDs is attached to it.

White/blue wire is the right front signal and the indicator light.

Green/white is the left front turn signal and indicator light.

Orange/blue is the right rear turn signal and brake light.

Green/orange is the left rear turn signal and brake light.

Finally, the green wire comes from the brake switch. This is the one I have an issue with, it appears to work properly when the turn lever is activated, if you click the lever up like a right turn it turns off the brake light on the right side and the left brake/signal wire get continuity so the brake will work on the left side and not the right because it is blinking, works the same in the opposite position. The problem is there is no continuity between the green wire and either of the rear brake lights in the center position and if I am looking at the wiring diagram correctly there should be so the brake lights will work.

Am I missing something? Do I need to take the turn signal switch apart and check for a contact issue in the center even though they seem to make contact otherwise when in either turn direction is engaged?

Probably just missing something or this is how it works :roll:

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Mike
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tomb22
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by tomb22 »

OK I looked at my diagram and the blue/yellow is a hot wire that is grounded out by the horn button to pull the horn relay in.

The blue wire is also hot coming from the flasher where the flasher is fed from a fused panel.

The green wire is hot when the brake pedal is pushed and the brake pedal switch is fed from a fused panel circuit. In the original wiring that brake pedal was being fed from the original fuse block.
Here is the diagram I used,

Image
Hope this helps
tom
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lavron
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by lavron »

tomb22 wrote:
Mon Jul 27, 2020 11:08 pm
Here is the diagram I used,
Thanks Tom, yes that is the diagram I have, I just can't figure out why the green (brakes) is not feeding through when the turn lever is in the center because I don't see any other way for the brake lights to work except through the turn signal switch, like I said this is the switch that was on my car and the brake lights worked so I may need to add some juice to it and see if the test light will light.

Because according to that diagram they use the same terminals when switched to turn.

See Ya,
Mike
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lavron
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Re: Wiring ideas for your car

Post by lavron »

Still can't get the brake lights to work except when the turn signal is operating on the other side then one side works, both will not work when the lever is in the off (non-signaling) position.

May be a moot point because I am doing sequential taillights and they use their own controller. I have some cheap sequencers I bought already but they are not going to work, they signal ok but only run the sequencer once when brakes are applied and go off, I found some different ones that are supposed to work properly and the brake wire runs all the way to the rear of the car bypassing the original set-up.

On that same note, anyone know the proper 1157 sockets for a '64? Mine are crusty and don't work too good, I am not really sure how they come out of the housings either plus I need an extra one for the center hole that I think is larger, on the original, it looks like it was a twist in socket.

I don't want to break my taillight housings but I assume the sockets just snap in.

See Ya,
Mike
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