POR-15

[Joe Travers]

Okay, old master fabbers of the forum. Need to run through a quick recheck before I deal with this one. Had no-start this morning. Checked battery terminals and clean, button up, still no-start. Grab voltmeter and check voltage @ battery, 10.5V. Time for new battery. Might as well address any corrosion issue while I have it out, plus some alternator alignment work. Unbolt the tray (it's in good shape) and find a nice surprise.



I'm not replacing the apron @ this time. Going to wait until I hustle the $$ for the floor pans and get it all done at one time. Just trying to arrest it for now until I can get to it. Have bathed the panel and tray in baking soda solution to neutralize any acid corrosion. It's drying now after a rinse. Are you guys using POR to arrest rust before painting or is there a better product? They have a lot of products. I think the small kit would be best for this little job ? Need to brush it up, treat and re-paint for now. Thanks!

Joe

[lavron]

POR15 WOULD BE MY C1HOI11CE A1FT1ER 111N1EUTRA1LI1ZING AS MU11CH 11R1U!ST 1AS You can, Home Depot sells a product called prep and etch it is pretty inexpensive and I used to remove the rust from the roof of. My car and it worked well you will need to rinse it well afterwards I think is the same stuff POR sells call metal prep you are supposed to use before applying POR, but a gallon from HD cost about the same as a quart from POR
I could not see your picture but my tray was rusted underneath as well so for years under the battery tray was a metal paint roller tray riveted to what was left of my rotten apron glad I have that all replaced now even though my battery is in the trunk now
See Ya,
Mike

[Joe Travers]

POR sells a small kit with cleaner, prep wash and treatment/paint. Don't know how much coverage I can get out of it.
Need to treat the tray as well while I'm at it.
Reckon I'll purchase one. If I run out, I'll buy another and keep on truckin' till it's finished.

Joe

[power band]

'Prep" stuff is Phosphoric acid in proprietary formulas, POR15's 'Metal-Prep" is an example. You can also buy Phosphoric Acid locally in box-store bulk (maybe). Spritz or paint on, let work/convert and then 'neutralize' thoroughly with water. 'Converts' ferric oxide into ferric phosphate which is water soluble to some extent. adding a little baking soda to rinse helps neutralize.

Acid sprayed into closed unreachable areas will 'convert' surface and inhibit rust. Clean metal will acquire a hazy hue and have etched more 'tooth' for paint treatment. Also makes seasoned metal more easily MIG weld (conductivity)

phoshoric acid treated after stripping:
. . .

POR 15 is basically 'crazy glue' - isocyanate based encapsulator. Some say the rustier the better for adhesion. POR 15 reacts to sunlight and needs to be topped with a POR compatible 'paint' - POR mfg's have just the thing ... . Most paints will not adhere to POR15 as the surface achieves an almost ceramic shiny smooth surface and dark color turns milky after sun exposure..

61's battery acid (alien blood) damage to Strut frame bracket, batty tray , rad support etc


Phosho' acid treatment


repaired and POR15'd

[Joe Travers]

Nice repair and love that car!
POR kit it is, headed to the store

Thanks!

Joe

[power band]

PS For early car rescues: : unique 60/61 strut rod frame brackets can be adapted from re-pop'd available 65 Mustang parts and vendors.

have fun

[Joe Travers]

I could not see your picture but my tray was rusted underneath as well so for years under the battery tray was a metal paint roller tray riveted to what was left of my rotten apron glad I have that all replaced now even though my battery is in the trunk now

Owned a few in my time with battery sitting on slab of plywood held down with a bungie strap
The hole in the picture is the concrete floor under the car. Not too bad. I've seen much much worse.
Picked up POR 15 kit for $30. Brushes, gloves, degreaser, prep and treatment for 6 square feet in a box with instructions. It's idiot proof.
I'm covered in the morning when it's not so blasted hot.

Joe

[lavron]

I used to buy POR15 in a 6 pack of pint cans but could not find any packed that way last I checked, a pint is better for me for most jobs because I can open one small can and don’t have to worry about a large can getting moisture and getting hard before I can use all of it.

[Joe Travers]

I used to buy POR15 in a 6 pack of pint cans but could not find any packed that way last I checked, a pint is better for me for most jobs because I can open one small can and don’t have to worry about a large can getting moisture and getting hard before I can use all of it.

I found one vendor locally and had to drive across the river to buy it. Like you, don't want to buy more than I need @ one time. Too many paint cans lying around here already going to waste. That's good money to put back into the car for other fixes. Would be nice to have a enough money to knock it all out at once but that would kill my incentive to own it. It will never be perfect but making it better gives me the warm and fuzees

Joe

[power band]

good suggestion on small cans, some shake it up and just put 2 small holes in lid to keep air exposure down (it's very thin).

I use it, but first read the cautions:( POR15)... isocyanate cures with moisture so humid days speed up hardening process: your air passages, eyes, etc are moist so do not breathe or contact any isocyanate product or vapors. IMHO: OSHA approved positive pressure respirator for spray application, / non-osha application with adequate ventilation, preferably outside upwind/fan and paint respirator for brush application.




have fubn

[lavron]

I always wear protection with POR, especially gloves because you will wear it awhile still get some on my hands somehow anyway so you can always tell when I have used it for a week afterwards and I agree a littlegoes a long way, you can dust POR with spray paint just as it becomes set at the end and top coat it later or use the chassis black paint they sell to top coat it to protect it from UV exposure so it does not turn brown not sure it hurts it just looks bad.
I did do the POR patch repair kit in my trunk years ago, basically they have you prep the surface, neutralize the rust, paint with POR and. Add fiberglass cloth over the wet paint, then brush the top with more paint, it does dry hard but not sure it is a good solution, I have some of the POR patch as well it comes in a tube and is just a thick.POR, seams to work ok like seam sealer. I keep a tube around. One other thing is you are supposed to be able to top coat POR with Kiltz spray primer after it is dry and then you can paint normal over it.
See Ya,
Mike

[Joe Travers]

... isocyanate cures with moisture so humid days speed up hardening process

Good! It sure cure in about 10 minutes down here, no joke.
I had to wear a towel around my neck this afternoon, constantly wiping sweat out of my eyes. I was in the shade.

Joe

[lavron]

POR sells a small kit with cleaner, prep wash and treatment/paint. Don't know how much coverage I can get out of it.
Need to treat the tray as well while I'm at it.
Reckon I'll purchase one. If I run out, I'll buy another and keep on truckin' till it's finished.

Joe

Did one kit do it?

[Joe Travers]

Did one kit do it?

Doooood......

2.5 oz. for 2 coats. Corner of apron (top to bottom), frame rail, tray and hold-down bracket.
Drying now. Think I'll scuff the edges and feather it in with the older paint after it dries.
Surprised how fast it is flashing off in 80% humidity and the occasional drizzle of rain today.

Joe

[lavron]

All the POR talk makes me want to break out a can and paint my floor pans(intended job anyway) I have some noico 150 mil red sound deader on the way going to cover the floors with that and then a layer of Peel and Seal over that should cut down on heat and noise inside the car.might be like driving Lincoln
see Ya,
Mike