I like my 331, solid lifter motor with cheap untouched aluminum heads.
JMO, but I think the 333 (0.040 over 5.0L) is the best choice for a durable race engine. Would require a Dart block for extra insurance but unshrouding big valves makes a lot of power. The S/S champ in SEGA runs a '65 Caliente w/ one w/ dual quad intake.
Joe
Thanks Joe.
Been looking at aftermarket blocks. The Dart SHP Block is out of stock and the iron eagle block available around first of the year. Been awhile since I looked. Been concentrating on getting the car painted for now.
What stroke did they use for the 333?
3.25, like the 331 cid, Lou but the bore is an extra 0.010". 4.04"X 3.25"
Guys build street engines w/ the '91 5.0L roller block but I don't know how long they would hold up in a race application.
It may be a while before the Darts are available again.
Thanks Tom, and your right I did enjoy it. It is actually really close to what I want. Didn't see where they said what kind of block they used so assuming a Ford block. Planned on AFR 185 heads. Was leaning toward more cam than that, but might not be necessary. But I could definitely go with a engine like that! Thanks
I like my 331, solid lifter motor with cheap untouched aluminum heads. Makes 420 plus HP according to the ET calculators. I only have a 8,000 tach and it has sat on the 8,000 pin many times. More cubes would be better for the torque to get my 3,400 lb comet moving but if I was going bigger I would stroke a 351 block.
Roger
Thanks Roger!
I am assuming your running a flat lifter and not a roller. Looked at a bunch of possibilities and keep coming back to the 331 with solid flat lifter cam. To late for me to go to a 351 block stroker. Already have a bunch of parts including headers and such. Plus I would need to address the shock towers.
You using a stock block or aftermarket? Willing to go to aftermarket block if need be, but local builder has been telling me don't really need to.
Thinking AFR heads. And probably error on the side of too much cam.
If you don't mind me asking what are your cam specs?
Thanks again
Lou
HI Lou, sorry for the late reply. Stock block as no power adders. If your not spraying N02 or adding boost you will not break a small block FORD. Sure things can happen at high rpms, running it past 8,000, bearings and valve train. The old 2 bolt windsor block will not fail. I cut my shock towers, wish I had cut more. When the motor comes out I will cut more or install a different style of front end. Big flat tappet cams are COOL.
Roger
65 comet 7.61@96mph 1/8
Made in Canada, Built for speed.
Tweaked65 on instagram
HI Lou, sorry for the late reply. Stock block as no power adders. If your not spraying N02 or adding boost you will not break a small block FORD. Sure things can happen at high rpms, running it past 8,000, bearings and valve train. The old 2 bolt windsor block will not fail. I cut my shock towers, wish I had cut more. When the motor comes out I will cut more or install a different style of front end. Big flat tappet cams are COOL.
Roger
Thanks Roger.
Should I look for a specific year/type 302 block? I have my original 289 engine I could use. Have a lead on a 289 hipo if that block would be better. Only going to use block, plan is 331 stroker, AFR heads, Big flat tapped cam. Forged internals?
Every stroker small block I have built has been on an 85 up roller cam block. Has higher nickel content and the roller cam without an expensive retro fit kit is awesome. If you are using a z-bar you can deal with that by making an adapter that bolts to the bellhousing or buy one. Also, last 347 I built I put a valley girdle in to keep the block from splitting in case I decide to spray it.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
Larry
I like my 331, solid lifter motor with cheap untouched aluminum heads. Makes 420 plus HP according to the ET calculators. I only have a 8,000 tach and it has sat on the 8,000 pin many times. More cubes would be better for the torque to get my 3,400 lb comet moving but if I was going bigger I would stroke a 351 block.
Roger
Thanks Roger!
I am assuming your running a flat lifter and not a roller. Looked at a bunch of possibilities and keep coming back to the 331 with solid flat lifter cam. To late for me to go to a 351 block stroker. Already have a bunch of parts including headers and such. Plus I would need to address the shock towers.
You using a stock block or aftermarket? Willing to go to aftermarket block if need be, but local builder has been telling me don't really need to.
Thinking AFR heads. And probably error on the side of too much cam.
If you don't mind me asking what are your cam specs?
Thanks again
Lou
HI Lou, sorry for the late reply. Stock block as no power adders. If your not spraying N02 or adding boost you will not break a small block FORD. Sure things can happen at high rpms, running it past 8,000, bearings and valve train. The old 2 bolt windsor block will not fail. I cut my shock towers, wish I had cut more. When the motor comes out I will cut more or install a different style of front end. Big flat tappet cams are COOL.
Roger
Hey Roger, just passing on what a friend said to me.
He runs a 10.0, 377? Windsor auto.
He changed the car to M2 and said ya lots more room but it doesnt launch as good as a setup stock frontend.
Just info.
I'd rather do it myself if it's done right or not,,,isn't that what hotrodding is all about
Every stroker small block I have built has been on an 85 up roller cam block. Has higher nickel content and the roller cam without an expensive retro fit kit is awesome. If you are using a z-bar you can deal with that by making an adapter that bolts to the bellhousing or buy one. Also, last 347 I built I put a valley girdle in to keep the block from splitting in case I decide to spray it.
Good to know. Thanks Boss!
I have a standard bore '91 roller cam block in my car. Also Scott Drake Z-bar mount.
Every stroker small block I have built has been on an 85 up roller cam block. Has higher nickel content and the roller cam without an expensive retro fit kit is awesome. If you are using a z-bar you can deal with that by making an adapter that bolts to the bellhousing or buy one. Also, last 347 I built I put a valley girdle in to keep the block from splitting in case I decide to spray it.
Thanks Boss for the info. I will keep that in mind as I decide.
Not really worried about Z bar. As you said I could make a bracket, or go hydraulic if need be. Now will the roller cam block create any issues for me using a flat tappet cam?
Ok, went in a little bit of a different direction. Doing a 363 stroker short block from FordStrokers and going with a roller cam instead of flat tappet. Jim at FordStrokers said I should go with a hydraulic roller cam for what I am building. They are going to get a custom? cam for me. Filled out a 3 sheet form on the cam for them. Thought of what John said he had and thought a high RPM solid flat tappet cam with a 3500 -7000+ rpm range might not be the best for the street. Going for a 2500-6500 range. Hopefully have a really fun street engine when done. Still need to get intake, carb, dist, and few other things. Was thinking edelbrock performer rpm for intake, 750 carb, and pertronix dist. But at least getting some stuff done!
Might as well get the air gap RPM , bout the same but suppose to cool the fuel better. & it has a great little space under there to warm up a samage too!
Ok, went in a little bit of a different direction. Doing a 363 stroker short block from FordStrokers and going with a roller cam instead of flat tappet. Jim at FordStrokers said I should go with a hydraulic roller cam for what I am building. They are going to get a custom? cam for me. Filled out a 3 sheet form on the cam for them. Thought of what John said he had and thought a high RPM solid flat tappet cam with a 3500 -7000+ rpm range might not be the best for the street. Going for a 2500-6500 range. Hopefully have a really fun street engine when done. Still need to get intake, carb, dist, and few other things. Was thinking edelbrock performer rpm for intake, 750 carb, and pertronix dist. But at least getting some stuff done!
Lou
Should be a runner. I built a 347 with a hydraulic roller in my 66 Mustang fastback. Runs mid 12's on street tires and stock suspension. I used the comp cam stroker specific hydraulic roller cam they made back when I built mine in 2005 with a parker Funnel Web intake and the, then brand new, Ford motorsports "Z heads". I bet you'll be way faster than that with your new motor.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
Larry
Might as well get the air gap RPM , bout the same but suppose to cool the fuel better. & it has a great little space under there to warm up a samage too!
Thanks John, was also looking at the air gap rpm. The air gap seems a little harder to find. In todays world with the "supply chain problems" availability has been a issue. Might depend on which one is available. Also the air gap is a little pricier and sooner or later going to have to watch the budget, LOL
So far so good with the short block parts, and I got my AFR heads but had to get the smog versions because the non smog ones have to be ordered and when Talking to AFR they said about a year wait. They (AFR) and FordStrokers both told me the performance from the smog heads will be the same as the non-smog, just have to plug a couple holes.
The short block will come with the oil pan package and a cam package so that will cut down on parts I need to find. Starting to get excited and really think I can be driving it this year!!
