289 keeps getting hot!

[Proverbs27:17]

I've got a 1964 Mercury Comet Wagon with the original 289 and was air conditioning from the factory. The 289 has had a new cam put in it and a brand new Edelbrock 1406 carb on it with a 180 degree thermostat. It also has a new Champion 2 row 1 inch tube radiator(same size as original 17 1/4 overall core width) and a Derale high output single fan shroud kit (2100 cfm) as well. I've only driven it a handful of times since I've completely redid it (mustang II frontend, disc brakes conversion, all new interior, etc). It gets hot 200+ after about 15-20 mins driving and will die. It takes numerous times cranking and then finally fires back off. As long as I'm cruising at highway speed it's not problem but when I slow down at a stop sign etc it will die again. This is extremely frustrating cause I don't feel confident to drive it anywhere. The times I've driven the car it's been anywhere between 80-90 degrees here in Arkansas. I'll open for any suggestions so I can drive this car that I've spent a year and a half working on or I'll make someone a great deal on it, LOL!

[Joe Travers]

Two things I would first consider.
1.) Are you running a carb spacer on the Edelbrock? They are notorious for vapor lock on ethanol during heat sink.
2.) What is ignition timing? I'd shoot for 10 degrees advance minimum @ idle, esp. w/ a cam change.

Joe

[Proverbs27:17]

Joe, I do have a spacer on it and I'm pretty sure it is set at 14 degrees. I didn't do the engine work, a buddy of mine did.

[Joe Travers]

Have you checked float level? Edelbrocks seem to be more finicky about fuel pressure than Holleys.
I'm thinking it's a carb problem, unless you smell coolant. Engine shouldn't lock up unless temp gets very high.
If it's a fresh rebuild, it may run a little hot until it's broken in, depending on rings & clearances.
Next time it stalls @ a stop, floor the accelerator pedal and see if it fires off. Could be flooding out.

Joe

[popscomet]

the block itself may be clogged up just food for thought....so many people want to blame fan,theromo stat or rad,,,was the block vatted when it was redone pop

[popscomet]

by the way..where do live in ARK

[Proverbs27:17]

I don't smell coolant. I also have a fuel regulator on it that is set at 5 psi with a new Edelbrock electric fuel pump. When it does die, I cram it to the floor and it will start but then usually die. It take many tries until it finally fires off. When it does I try to get home as fast as I can. Today I was 20 miles from home. After I got it started back it did fine until I had to slow down then it died 3 more times before I got it home. The last time it died it was at about 220 degrees. Extremely frustrating. I redone a 76 f100 about 5 years ago and it was a breeze compared to this wagon. Trying to get parts for this care was difficult at times and the space in that engine bay compared to the truck was night and day apart! I've got almost $500 in two tail light lenses because they were only made one year. Anyways, I just want to be able to cruise in the thing. BTW, this is all happening without the air conditioner running cause I've yet to have the system charged.

[Proverbs27:17]

Pop, it was a driver when I brought it home and it ran fine. I live in Northeast Arkansas, about 15 mins from Jonesboro which is home to Arkansas State University.

[Caveman49]

Just a couple other areas to consider; is the thermostat in correctly, and we’re the head gaskets installed properly (oriented correctly).

You might consider drilling an eighth inch hole off to one side of the thermostat. Is the fan sitting 1/2 in the shroud?

[Joe Travers]

If idle mixture is set right and choke is functioning correctly, may be the coil.
They love to die when they get hot and will work when they cool down a bit.
Shooting in the dark, wish I lived nearby to help out.

Joe

[popscomet]

was the heads removed??.....I live near the AIR FORCE BASE...JACKSONVILLE....pop

[Caveman49]

Great info here, gotta love it!

Did you by chance put a new water pump on it? If so, is it the correct one for your engine? If you can, try to get the actual temp with one of those infrared temp guns. HF sells them fairly reasonable.

[bmmaurer]

... and I'm pretty sure it is set at 14 degrees. I didn't do the engine work, a buddy of mine did.

Also, make sure the total advanced timing is no more than base timing plus 15* at 3000 rpm. (IE base of 14* + 15* = 29* degrees Max)

If not it will always run hot at idle.

Comet Bruce

[Joe Travers]

BTW, this is all happening without the air conditioner running cause I've yet to have the system charged.

Missed this one. Is the A/C condenser clean & in good shape? It could be blocking air flow to the radiator if it isn't.
Take a small piece of paper or a dollar bill and hold it in front of the condenser w/ the engine idling. That shroud and the proper fan should pull it to the condenser. The stock fan was 5-blade 17" for A/C. I'm running a 6-blade on my engine.

Joe

[Proverbs27:17]

Pop, the heads were removed. The coil along with distributor is brand new. The fan and shroud is from Derale made exactly for that radiator. Thermostat is also brand new and in correctly and new water pump. We put a serpentine system on the car. The condenser and all other ac parts/lines are all brand new. Thanks for all the help, keep it coming!