Doug's 65 Cyclone build

[popscomet]

I knew a guy yrs ago,that painted everything in his drive way,,would get up early...wet everything down wih water hose and paint....turn out several slick jobs.......where there is a will,,there is a way...knew another guy who painted locomotives for the railroad with me built a 2x4 frame and wrap it plastic and painted cars and trucks,,did good work..pop

[Joe Travers]

I knew a guy yrs ago,that painted everything in his drive way,,would get up early...wet everything down wih water hose and paint....turn out several slick jobs.......where there is a will,,there is a way...knew another guy who painted locomotives for the railroad with me built a 2x4 frame and wrap it plastic and painted cars and trucks,,did good work..pop

That's the way my old mentor, Mr. Eddie did his paint jobs, Pop. Always looked great, especially black cars. Drove 4X4 posts around the car and wrapped w/ Visqueen. Kept a garden hose handy to wet down the ground before he started.

Joe

[DesertRat]

Question for Ya'all. I am having the brightwork from my Cyclone refinished and rechromed. The taillight housings are coming up for their turn and I don't know how to remove the brass bulb socket from the housing before they go in the tanks. Have any of you guys replaced the sockets in the 65 taillight housings?

[poboyjo65]

Question for Ya'all. I am having the brightwork from my Cyclone refinished and rechromed. The taillight housings are coming up for their turn and I don't know how to remove the brass bulb socket from the housing before they go in the tanks. Have any of you guys replaced the sockets in the 65 taillight housings?

I used a socket that was same size & tapped them out. or in rather lol

[poboyjo65]

but note how deep they are,or take a pic is better,then you know how far to tap them back in.

[DesertRat]

Ok thanks! I will drive them out from the back to the front tomorrow.

[poboyjo65]

Might be a good idea to put a bolt & nut in that hole to seal it off from coatings, so the socket fits back in there & inform the chrome guys why it is there.

[DesertRat]

Hello all again. I posted a request for help here finding a Hurst floorshift for my Cyclone using the stock BW T-10. Thanks to the folks here I was able to obtain the Hurst unit I wanted for my build. Following is a photo of the NOS still in factory packaging with intact paperwork shifter I bought. Thanks a lot to Bruce Dodds for expediting this for me!

Below is a photo of the four Comet radios I have collected for my build. I am taking them to a local radio builder to see what can be done to make one good one that will fit my 65 dash insert. Three of the radios are 65 Comet and one is a different year but AM/FM. We shall see.

All my brightwork is at the chromer and some of it is back. I should have it all by the end of the year.
On a side note, I am thinking of having a couple steel rectangels plasma cut and chromed for air inlets in the front of my hood. Looking at all your cars I see a lot of you have done something to your hoods to let air in. Just a thought---------------------------
Douglas----------------

[Joe Travers]

Nice snag, Doug!
Much better assembly than the newer ones. Tighter clearances, not as sloppy.

Joe

[DesertRat]

Nice snag, Doug!
Much better assembly than the newer ones. Tighter clearances, not as sloppy.

Joe

Thanks Joe I was excited about it. I could have rebuilt the factory one that came in the car but the car really wanted this to help it be complete.
Douglas

[Joe Travers]

#3733164?

1>2 rod adjusting button lots of fun to install on lever in the car. (Excuse my sarcasm)

Joe

[A/FX]

That particular shifter is later than the ‘60’s. The original Hurst shifter for the Comet/Falcon did not have a handle that was retained by bolts, it was not easily removable. Also the early knobs did not have “Hurst” on them, only the shift pattern, the aluminum mounting bracket also had a part number cast into it. I believe you have a vintage
re-release model, nothing wrong with it at all but it is just newer than the type I purchased for mine back in the late ‘60’s. Either one is so much better than the factory linkage.

Jim

[Joe Travers]

I believe you have a vintage re-release model, nothing wrong with it at all but it is just newer than the type I purchased for mine back in the late ‘60’s. Either one is so much better than the factory linkage.

I have vintage re-issue as well, Jim.
From what I know, better tolerances than the current assembly w/ etched label on casing (not stamped).

Joe

[A/FX]

I believe you have a vintage re-release model, nothing wrong with it at all but it is just newer than the type I purchased for mine back in the late ‘60’s. Either one is so much better than the factory linkage.

I have vintage re-issue as well, Jim.
From what I know, better tolerances than the current assembly w/ etched label on casing (not stamped).

Joe

I will be pulling my shifter/ trans out in the upcoming weeks because I am not pleased with my clutch and will be changing it. I can shoot some photos of the shifter if anyone is interested. Now that winter is closing in my Comet has been regulated to my shop until spring so I will be attending to a few items that have surfaced over the last driving season.

[Joe Travers]

I will be pulling my shifter/ trans out in the upcoming weeks because I am not pleased with my clutch and will be changing it.

Not to hijack Doug's thread, may be a useful topic. Did a freshen up last year on my Hurst, chasing down some shifting issues. Found the nylon bushings actually fit tighter than the steel ones that were installed. Current nylon bushing have larger O.D. collar that seem to grip the levers much better. Took all of the rocking out of the rods. Much tighter shifts. Don't bang gears often, seemed like the thing to do.

Joe