new dual master cylinder install

[frankstein65]

I just bought a 65 caliente and the previous owner installed front disc. Car has manual drum rear. I bought a new dual power assist m/c from ABS for front disc/rear drum. My question is, it looks like it's a tight fit under the shock brace to firewall. A mechanic told me he would have to cut it out to install the m/c and then reweld it back. Any input on this install? I'm new to this car. Thanks.

[frankstein65]

what I forgot to mention is that there is currently a single cylinder bowl installed on the car now.

[A/FX]

My opinion:
Forget what the “mechanic” told you. First off you do not need power assist for you brake system. I installed front discs on my Cyclone in 1974, I used an unboosted Ford master cyl. designed for a factory installed manual disc/drum system. It worked perfectly. During the recent rebuild I have installed four wheel disc brakes from Baer using a un boosted dual master from Master Power Brakes in Charlotte NC. this system uses a balancing/ proportioning valve.
I would suggest you contact a company like Master Power Brakes for their recommendation. Cutting the shock tower for clearance is not the answer.
Jim

[poboyjo65]

You will have a lot more room to add fluid/service the mc & It also makes it easier to get to the back spark plugs - if you get a bolt in (removable) export brace.
this is a link to one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-1965-Come ... 1438.l2649

here is a pic with an export brace & the abs booster/dual mc ;



.
pic with FACTORY brace & dual mc BUT NO BOOSTER;




pic with export brace & NO booster but dual mc;


here is a full view, (no booster);

[frankstein65]

thanks for the replys....I had already purchased the dual bowl with booster. I should have asked this forum first. Anyway, thanks for the pics on the new export brace. So Both braces were cut out and the new one just bolts to the shock towers and the firewall?? The link took me to ebay for the brace. It looks a little different than the pics you posted. But I think I'm gonna go with that bolt on and hope it clears the dual bowl addon.

[poboyjo65]

the one on ebay is for comet/falcon /ranchero,the same one as in all of my pics,except for the second pic,which is the factory brace that you have now,no power booster in that pic but you can see how crowded the mc is alone .

the first pic is of the export brace & with power booster & dual mc from ABS brake (like yours) .

the third pic is my car with no power booster & the export brace .

the last pic is just a pic to show how it looks & opens up access to the plugs & stuff, although it is a non power mc.

the part I like most is better access to the back plugs !

there is one other thing some of us have done is to beef up the mounting area,the lip of the firewall with a piece of angle iron . either bolted on or welded. but even without that it is probably stronger than the original, since it is one piece & very stiff.

btw one for a mustang wont work !!!!!

[EarlyCometExposure]

If you want to go "power" brakes, there is another option.
Hydraulic power assist.
Not sure how practical in your '65, but my friend has pointed them out while we browsed Barrett -Jackson.
A line is tapped off the power steering pump (assuming you have that installed) and it supplies pressure to the master cylinder.
The m/c still gets moved forward of the firewall, but the assist unit is smaller in diameter than the vacuum assist.
And then there is the cost of it too...

[comethead]

I installed the removable “export brace” too when I went with a dual MC. Makes access a breeze.
Like Johnnie mentioned I also welded a brace at the firewall horizontal lip where the brace mounts.
I think your mechanic would approve.

Joe

[frankstein65]

the brace came in today. My comet has welded braces. So I guess I have to cut them off. What's the best way? take it to a shop?

[poboyjo65]

I used a die grinder with a 3'' cut off wheel at the shock towers then a grinder to smooth out any remnants. & sawsall at the firewall ,but then I drilled out the spotwelds to get all of the rest off just to make it look better. I guess if you squeezed it flat it wouldn't hurt to leave the remnants under the lip & just drill thru all of it for the mount bolts. really doesn't matter though,a hack saw would do if ya aint too old to run it,like me,they dont even fit my hand any more!

before you mount it, try & flex it & tell me how it goes.

[comethead]

I used a die grinder with a 3'' cut off wheel at the shock towers then a grinder to smooth out any remnants. & sawsall at the firewall ,but then I drilled out the spotwelds to get all of the rest off just to make it look better. I guess if you squeezed it flat it wouldn't hurt to leave the remnants under the lip & just drill thru all of it for the mount bolts. really doesn't matter though,a hack saw would do if ya aint too old to run it,like me,they dont even fit my hand any more!

before you mount it, try & flex it & tell me how it goes.

[frankstein65]

comethead did you have to remove the hood to do all your work???? Also did you have any trouble installing the new brace AFTER cutting the old one out??? I thought I had to install the new one first then cut out whats reachable on the welded one after the install

[frankstein65]

well I learned that you cannot install the brace without cutting the old one first. The old brace does not allow the new one to fit flush on the shock tower. I'm thinking about returning the new brace and MC and just buy a dual mc w/o power assist.

[comethead]

Yes you’re right the original braces gotta be removed first. I did remove the hood to do the work.
I have a manual dual master cylinder with stock style Kelsey Hayes front disc brakes and rear drums and the car stops pretty good

Joe

[frankstein65]

installed the new brace and the new m/c with booster. Wow.....I got brakes now.......great