Root's 64 Cyclone Build

[Rootsy]

I will need a 64 first . There would be a ton of post print work to be ready for chrome. A lot of high build primer and sanding at a minimum. If Industry could come up with a DIY process to plate with 95% of the depth and luster of vacuum plating I think all of our hearts might skip a beat…

[Rootsy]

Not much happening here except a lot of parts deliveries - I reallocated some assets and invested those funds into car parts. This thing needs to get done - it’s been long enough.

Spent Sunday afternoon in the garage mocking up some stuff to get ready to bend brake lines. In-line tube parking brake cables are perfect as is the fuel line I got from them.







Word of advice… don’t wait 25 years to put something back together and expect to remember where everything goes. Spending a lot of time searching this forum lately.

After a lot of research I bit the bullet and bought the American auto wire kit too.



Rebuilding the heater housing. New seals and gaskets, new 3 speed motor, new copper heater core (8 x 6 x 2.5). Need to paint the metal parts on it. Also picked up a new plastic plenum , ducts and hoses from NPD last week.



Taking the opportunity also to clean and parkerize fasteners. It’s pretty easy to be honest. Since I load a lot of ammo I usually wet tumble with stainless pins in water with dawn dish soap. It makes fasteners spotless too! Then I have a crock pot and some ospho and just toss pieces in and cook at about 180F until the bubbling ceases. I give it a stir now and then. Gives a nice dark parkerized finish.

[Rootsy]

Parts arrived for the HVAC rebuild today so I cleaned everything up reasonably well, installed a bunch of foam pieces and painted the exterior.

I ended up buying a new heater control with 3 speed blower switch so I bought a new 3 speed blower motor since my old one didn’t sound very healthy. I guess I also need to put a resistor in the box.

My heater core also leaked so I took the opportunity to replace that also. For the life of me I could not find a 8 x 6 x 2 1/2 aluminum core so bought a copper replacement of the appropriate size. I have no intention of attaching heater hoses for the time being but someone in the future may want to so it’s there I guess.

One more thing done that can sit on a shelf in the basement for a while.

[Rootsy]

Started building brake lines last night. I definitely need more light in the garage and I can’t imagine doing this with the car on the ground. I don’t like the residual valve to proportioning valve line, it has a flat spot from trying to bend a tight 90. Not sold on where the residual valve is located either. I also have the bracket between MC and firewall and I guess it is supposed to go in front of MC so there is that. Who reads directions, right? Measure once, cut twice…

I did use the Inline Tube 3/8 & 3/16 combo brackets to hold the line set front to rear. Pretty nice piece.

[Boss/Cyclone]

Looks good, I do see your "kink" should be a pretty easy fix.

[Rootsy]

Redid a few things and plumbed the MC and front lines last night. It’ll do. Think I will begin putting the front suspension back together today. My open tracker roller Z bar assembly and trans crossmember rebuild kits should be here today so I can mock all of that up.

Fixed that kinked line too











Had a friend lend me this brake tool. What a badass piece of kit.

[Lou's Comet]

.............................
Had a friend lend me this brake tool. What a badass piece of kit.

Same flare tool I have, LOVE it!! Flaring brake lines couldn't be easier, definitely worth the money.

Did your friend lend you the reamer tool too, it preps the end of the cut line to make the flare.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-tubin ... -tool.html

Looks good Root! Coming together nicely!

Lou

[DesertRat]

Rootsy thanks for posting the photos. I am at the same spot in my current build. Looking at your photos it appears that you have two residual valves in the circuits. A fixed Willwood unit for the rear and the adjustable unit for the front. Am I correct in that assumption? I want to run my hard lines for the front before I take it off the rotisserie but I can't fine my stock front distribution block. I want fixed ends to plumb to so I may order a new one.

[Joe Travers]

Nice work on the MC all around, Root
Is your blower motor going to fit?

Dig the old Farm-All.

Joe

[Rootsy]

Nice work on the MC all around, Root
Is your blower motor going to fit?

Dig the old Farm-All.

Joe

Should. I bent to match my original line from the soft hose bracket to the new MC (where it all becomes custom). Hard to see but the line kicks out from the firewall to clear the blower motor protrusion.

[Rootsy]

Rootsy thanks for posting the photos. I am at the same spot in my current build. Looking at your photos it appears that you have two residual valves in the circuits. A fixed Willwood unit for the rear and the adjustable unit for the front. Am I correct in that assumption? I want to run my hard lines for the front before I take it off the rotisserie but I can't fine my stock front distribution block. I want fixed ends to plumb to so I may order a new one.

Are you using the original single bowl MC? If you need an original (I think it is original) I have mine that I am no longer going to use. Yes I have the proportioning valve supplied by CSRP with the conversion I purchased from them. Not sure if it has a check valve in or not. For all I know the MC rear brake bowl May have one too. After reading a number of discussions here and out there on mustangs forums, etc it seems a rear 10# residual valve is a good idea when using disc / drum setup. I have a 2# for the front but didn’t install - I just couldn’t figure out how to make it fit in the space I was working in and make it look half way decent. I was concerned about having lines and stuff sit too far below the MC / proportioning valve and interfering with the steering box / column and or the Z bar and clutch linkage. I will toss it in the spare parts box just in case.

I still have the rearend to do but I also need to replace the pinion yoke - it must have a groove worn in the original because it is leaking very expensive Redline onto the garage floor. Picked up a machined piece from QP to replace my original. Uses the 1310 HD ujoint though.

[poboyjo65]

Rootsy thanks for posting the photos. I am at the same spot in my current build. Looking at your photos it appears that you have two residual valves in the circuits. A fixed Willwood unit for the rear and the adjustable unit for the front. Am I correct in that assumption? I want to run my hard lines for the front before I take it off the rotisserie but I can't fine my stock front distribution block. I want fixed ends to plumb to so I may order a new one.

I noticed that too, but in one pic I see both are on the rear line. But wondering about the residual valve, csrp says their MC's have built in residual valves. maybe you have an older kit that didn't ? or if not what's the purpose of the second one?

everything looks great, attention to detail is great too!

edit ; never mind I see the answer above.

[A/FX]

Rootsy thanks for posting the photos. I am at the same spot in my current build. Looking at your photos it appears that you have two residual valves in the circuits. A fixed Willwood unit for the rear and the adjustable unit for the front. Am I correct in that assumption? I want to run my hard lines for the front before I take it off the rotisserie but I can't fine my stock front distribution block. I want fixed ends to plumb to so I may order a new one.

The recommended installation for a disc/ drum system is an adjustable proportioning valve and a 10lb ( red) residual valve plumbed into the rear line from the master. The front discs need a 2lb (blue) residual valve in the line. From previous experience I can not recommend a “combination” valve that some suppliers offer, one valve does not fit all, an adjustable valve is the ticket. I have a Baer disc/disc system so I use an adjustable proportioning valve and a 2lb residual valve plumbed into the rear line, and a 2lb residual valve in the front line. Bleeding the system using a “power” type bleeder is recommended, although some systems can be done by the “foot” system with decent results.

Jim

[Rootsy]

I added the 10# rear because no where in the CSRP literature could I find reference to a residual valve being part of the proportioning valve or the master cylinder. Does the front need a residual valve? Time will tell I guess. I have a 2# I can install if so. I have the 2.3 swap (single piston caliper).

I need to find a cheap engine block too that I can wash and spray with bed liner to use for mock up to make sure everything clears and works before I find it when I try to put the actual good stuff in there… those plastic blocks are highway robbery @ $500.

[A/FX]

I added the 10# rear because no where in the CSRP literature could I find reference to a residual valve being part of the proportioning valve or the master cylinder. Does the front need a residual valve? Time will tell I guess. I have a 2# I can install if so. I have the 2.3 swap (single piston caliper).

I need to find a cheap engine block too that I can wash and spray with bed liner to use for mock up to make sure everything clears and works before I find it when I try to put the actual good stuff in there… those plastic blocks are highway robbery @ $500.

I first plumbed my system with the dreaded combination valve as suggested by Master Power Brakes. After much frustration and having virtually no solid braking I trashed the Combination valve and installed the adjustable proportioning valve. I then had brakes but a soft first pump of the pedal, after doing some research I installed the 2lb valves. Problem solved, a firm pedal and great brakes. (I made sure that the brake pads were not touching the rotors, there is no drag at all)
A mock up block is a great idea, I used a rusty old Windsor block and found some rough Cleveland heads to use during the build. I was able to build everything from the front drive system to the exhaust system using the mock up block.
Jim