Auto to Manual conversion
Auto to Manual conversion
Hello, I'm new to your forum so I hope I'm in the right area to find a possible solution to a problem I have encountered. I purchased a 1965 Mercury Comet Caliente. It has an automatic trans and I want to convert it to a 4-speed manual. The problem I have encountered is with the equalizer bar installation. I have the part prescribed for my car (Part #FC-EC012) from All Classic Parts Group and is offered by RPS Restoration. When attempting to install the Z-bar it is too short. The upper control arm for the clutch pedal rod hits on the left side of the steering column. This results in the pivot arm or pipe from not reaching the pivot bolt installed on the engine block side. The pivot bar/rod is about 1 inch too short. The Z-Bar pivot arm measures 5 3/16 inches in length. I thought maybe the Z-bar I have was manufactured wrong. So I called the RPS folks, they called the All Classic Parts Group for a measurement and theirs measured the same. Will a Mustang Z-bar be an alternative option (Part #FM-EC005). Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
Yes, 289 engine, power steering, and power drum brakes. My first thought was the wrong Z-bar as well. But through all of my searches it appears the same part keeps showing up for a;
- Falcon
- Comet
- Ranchero
- Falcon
- Comet
- Ranchero
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
the pivot ball on the frame rail will slide towards the engine if the bolts are loosened. have you tried that?
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
Could not get that far. In the process of dry fitting all the parts the Z-bar was hitting the left side of the steering column. After searching some more, I might need a Z-bar from a 1964 Comet. This might solve my issue. I will call back to the RPS Restoration parts store and have them measure the pivot shaft on a 1964 Z-bar (Part #FC-EC011). In the supplied photo, the pivot shaft looks longer than the one pictured for the 1965 (Part #FC-EC012).
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
Some pics would go a long way to help us to see what the problem may be. if the motor is too low that could make the arm hit the column. the pivot tube of the z bar should be level & perpendicular to the frame rail. I'll see if I can measure mine today.
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
Thanks. Look forward to receiving your info.
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
Hello All, I found out the Z-bar pivot bar/pipe for a 1963-1964 Comet is 6 inches long (Part #FC-EC011) and the same part for a 1965 Comet (Part #FC-EC012) is 5 3/16 inches long. Appears some 1965 cars used 1964 parts. Still doing some investigation, but I think the problem has been solved as I need a Z-bar with a 6 inch pivot pipe to reach from the frame to the engine without rubbing on the steering column.
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
That may be that the 5 bolt bell & 6 bolt bellhousing differences. Is your motor the original or do you know?
I just looked up the z bars here on pg 62 of Obsolete parts.
http://www.classicautopartsonlinecatalo ... con&from=2
BIG difference in the price between the years. I think I'd be welding on a little piece of pipe before I gave any of those prices.
I just looked up the z bars here on pg 62 of Obsolete parts.
http://www.classicautopartsonlinecatalo ... con&from=2
BIG difference in the price between the years. I think I'd be welding on a little piece of pipe before I gave any of those prices.
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
I checked out your "obsolete parts" catalog from OK and yes the prices are high. The RSP Restoration store sells the same item for about $59.00. I hope to exchange the 1965 part for a 1964 part. Thanks for your help and suggestion.
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
Yea I just saw some on ebay for about the price you mentioned.& macs was among them,about the same price too.
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- Posts: 1870
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2014 10:37 pm
- Location: Santa Clara, Ca
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
You are correct, the zbar tube should be 5 3/16" long on the 65. 64's probably were longer because of the 260 engine, though you would think they would be the same. You can do what Joe (comethead) and I did use the zbar for an early mustang hipo and cut the tube to fit. The upper arm comes over the top of the column tube but does not rub at least not on Joes' and mine. You just have to ream the inside bore which is 3/4" id deeper into the tube for the bushing to fit further in.
Mine has worked just fine.
Ron
Mine has worked just fine.
Ron
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
Once I find the correct Z-bar I might have to bend or alter the upper clutch push rod to maneuver around the power brake booster. Anyone else have power brakes with their 4-speed? Again, thanks for all the help.
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- Posts: 1870
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2014 10:37 pm
- Location: Santa Clara, Ca
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
I do have power discbrakes with my setup. The push rod for the zbar clears the booster because of the small diameter of the booster being only 6 1/4".DesertFox wrote:Once I find the correct Z-bar I might have to bend or alter the upper clutch push rod to maneuver around the power brake booster. Anyone else have power brakes with their 4-speed? Again, thanks for all the help.
In this pic you can see the push rod connected to the zbar just below the booster.
You could try the mustang hipo zbar which is longer than the 65 as it could already be the right length or only need slight shortening. The block at the top of the upper arm can be be installed on either side for the best location. Mine is installed on the fender side which is how it comes from the factory but could be relocated to the engine side. That block and the bushing are available.
Ron
Re: Auto to Manual conversion
I want to pass along my thanks to all who provided me with a wealth of knowledge. Gleaning from others experience always makes my life so much easier. I wish our youngest son could do the same, maybe some day. Anyway, appears since my car is an original automatic trans the power booster is a little bigger than 6 1/2 to 7 inches. So I will be ordering a new booster as well. Again, thanks to all. Roger, Nampa Idaho